May 2013 Archives

May 31, 2013November 26, 2013

Naples: Just Do It.

I just spent two days in Naples, and loved it. It’s one of the most fertile, churning, exuberant, and fun cities in all of Europe. And the entire time, I wondered, “Where are the tourists?” Of course, Naples has a reputation of being dangerous. But I think that any reasonable traveler exercising good common sense will feel comfortable here — and will be well rewarded for their adventurous spirit.

Naples’ street plan is 2,500 years old, dating back to the days when it was the Greek city Neapolis. And for all those centuries, an arrow-straight, razor-thin street has cut the city in two. It’s Spaccanapoli, which means “Split Naples.” Exploring it, you become part of this vivid and exuberant stripe of life.

If exploring Naples, you can just park yourself on a street corner and watch the world roll by — much of it on motorbikes. It’s not unusual to see families of three, or even four, all sharing the family vehicle.

A big joy when researching a guidebook chapter on Naples is sorting through all the great restaurants. Characteristic mom-and-pop places cater to locals, serving family recipes at family-friendly prices. My criteria for a good restaurant: in a low-rent location; busy with locals; and with a small, handwritten menu in one language. (It’s small because they’re selling everything they’re cooking; it’s handwritten because it’s shaped by what’s fresh today in the market; and it’s in one language because they cater to locals rather than tourists). Here, pastas and secondi are just €6 (about $8) each. Everything’s delicioso — and I speak from experience.

Naples is a busy cruise port, and the terminal is right in the town center. Adventurous cruise travelers can hop off their ship and venture directly into the urban jungle. I met this American couple deep in Naples, having a great time…with ripped-out pages from my Mediterranean Cruise Ports guidebook. Their big smiles and the way they were using those pages made my day.

May 31, 2013January 8, 2018

I want to take a quick break from reporting in Italy to talk about my recent posts explaining how we filmed a circumcision party in Turkey. I apologize if the tone of my writing seemed disrespectful of a topic I didn’t realize people were so passionate about. I now understand that caring people feel very strongly about it. And the discussion on my blog has given me a better appreciation for this issue, which is clearly important to many people. Thank you.

For twenty years, I have made TV shows about European culture. I have shown controversial aspects of many cultures, from force-feeding geese for foie gras in France to bullfights in Spain. In each case, I’ve heard from people — whose opinions I respect — who are passionately against what I’ve shown. They have wanted me not to put these things on television. But in my role as a travel writer and TV producer, I have made a decision not to make judgments about institutions that are important to a culture, whatever my own personal feelings about them might be. It’s not my job to censor them from you, my viewers. These things exist, regardless of whether I (or you) agree with them or oppose them. And as travelers, we all have the opportunity to see them, learn from them, and then draw our own conclusions.

Now, back to Italy!

May 31, 2013December 7, 2016

Naples — Crazy for Pizza

It seems the people of Naples are endlessly enthusiastic about pizza and the fine differences between different pizzerias. My friend Vincenzo was emoting about his version of the best pizza: “Melts into your mouth, goes straight through the throat and into the stomach. It does not need to be chewed.” I turned my camera on him, and he clammed up a bit…but even so, he gave a sense of the Neapolitan love affair with pizza. The people of Naples claim pizza was born here, and it is clearly the best in Italy. What do you think? Where’s your favorite Italian pizza?

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

May 30, 2013December 7, 2016

Trajan’s Column Unrolled

At Rome’s E.U.R., the Museum of Roman Civilization has no actual artifacts, but it does have dozens of rooms full of plaster casts and models which illustrate the greatness of classical Rome. The highlight is a plaster model of Trajan’s Column sliced up and laid out so you can actually see the scenes. The original is one of the first great examples of “continuous narration” — when a relief is carved into a column as if winding a scroll around and around a huge pillar.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

May 30, 2013January 4, 2018

Rome — Eternally Entertaining

When they call Rome the “Eternal City,” I always think “eternal” means I’ll find visiting it fascinating and rewarding forever. At the risk of offending a billion people, I have to say the city’s cuisine is head and shoulders above any cuisine I’ve experienced so far on this trip.

In a city as densely populated as Rome, only the wealthy have a garden. And even then, it’s likely on the rooftop. Strolling, it’s important to look up as well as out. And when you do, you’ll see intriguing rooftop gardens like this.

In Milan and the north of Italy, it’s long been a tradition for bars to put out little buffets of appetizers which are offered free with a drink during happy hour. The tradition has now traveled south to Rome. Perhaps it’s a sign of the economic challenges faced by local watering holes — and the stiff competition — but now, throughout Rome, you’ll find bars competing by offering enticing buffet spreads free with an €8 drink. That can make for a cheap and tasty light dinner in an otherwise expensive city.

Lately I’ve been thinking that the caliber of politicians has a determinative effect on the well-being of a society. And poor Italy is really struggling. I have a friend who just told me, “We’ll take your losers. After the election, just send them over to us.” Here, comedians are viable candidates. And, I noticed, the local elections in Rome are featuring people who are nothing more than pretty faces. People seem to just vote for the sexiest poster.

Speaking of weak politicians, Benito Mussolini portrayed himself as just the opposite. Given the wacky nature of Italian politics, it’s no wonder out that, out of desperation, many will vote for a bombastic strong man with big promises. Consider Silvio Berlusconi in our times and Mussolini back in the 1920s. When you're in Rome, Mussolini’s planned and futuristic city, E.U.R., is a fascinating place to explore. This "people’s palace" (the Palace of the Civilization of Labor), which comes with statues to fit, says it all: Fascism — monolithic, melodramatic, no questions asked — either you’re with us or you’re against us, superpatriotism. It's potent...and scary. If Hitler and Mussolini had won the war, our world might look like E.U.R. — Speaking of weak politicians, Benito Mussolini portrayed himself as just the opposite. Given the wacky nature of Italian politics, it’s no wonder that out of desperation, many will vote for a bombastic strong man with big promises. Consider Silvio Berlusconi in our times and Mussolini back in the 1920s. When you’re in Rome, Mussolini’s planned and futuristic city, E.U.R., is a fascinating place to explore. This “people’s palace” (the Palace of the Civilization of Labor), which comes with statues to fit, says it all: Fascism — monolithic, melodramatic, no questions asked — either you’re with us or you’re against us, superpatriotism. It’s potent…and scary. If Hitler and Mussolini had won the war, our world might look like E.U.R.