Locals in Verona marvel at how about half of the people who come to their town are here for Juliet. Each year, about 1,600 Japanese tour groups break their Venice-Milan ride for an hour-long stop in Verona just to visit this courtyard, with its famous balcony. And all day long, a steady stream of visitors line up to polish Juliet’s bronze breast in hopes of good fortune in love.
Did Juliet even exist? According to the local information box, “While no documentation has been discovered to prove the truth of the legend, no documentation has disproved it either.”
I enjoy standing in the corner and just observing the spectacle, which was started by a tour guide back in the early 1970s. Sensing cynicism on my part, a local guide challenged me to find the positive in this ritual. So I tried:
Perhaps there’s a hunger for a Juliet in our world. Watching the mobs clamor to polish her breast for a moment or to blow kisses from her balcony, I try to appreciate what she means and to psychoanalyze what she provides as a role model. With Juliet, love will prevail. You can lose and also be a winner. Juliet is brave, tragic, honest, outspoken, timeless, and passionate — a mover and a shaker, a dreamer and a fighter. In a way, this is a pagan temple where the spirit of Juliet gives people something to believe in.
Or…maybe it’s just a simpleminded mob excited about a pile of baloney.
What do you think?
If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.
I believe that this “ritual” is composed of too many reasons to list. For those seeking love it is an opportunity make a little magic happen. The same way that people toss a coins into a wishing well. There is no magic down there and everyone knows this. The magic is in your own hope and optimism. The bright future you envision as you delicately caress, or roughly grope, this world famous breast is up to you to create. The magic boob will not grant your wishes. You must make that happen.
I must admit to a surprise while watching this video. I have been to Verona for sure three times and maybe four (I’d have to get out 12 journals to find out for sure). The last time was in 2007. Never once have I seen a woman touch Juliet’s breast and I’ve never heard it will make them lucky in love. I have only seen either half embarrassed or maybe trying-to-leer men do it. I suppose it might be because I have never been there with a guide or group and most recently it’s been in the fall/late fall. Ah well!
Seriously??? With all the great things to do in Italy!
I have been to Verona 2 or 3 times and I have always enjoyed doing this ritual, especially for good luck. It is unusual for a tourist site to do this ritual, but it is also fun and you can feel like part of the crowd. I love Verona any how, because it is so easy to walk around in and to observe the people, especially around Piazza Bra. No Pun intended. Rick, enjoy the rest of your time in Verona. I am half Italian and I will always love and enjoy being in Italy and sharing in the fabulous art, food, and social living that the Italians enjoy. Take care.
As a local guide in Verona I can say that in 17 years only once I was asked “Please don’t take us to Juliet’s house”: it’s a good story, it’s an incredibly good story… and, indeed, what a woman! Mr William Shakespeare has bene an effective marketing man for my city, but once travelers are here, I’m sure we are able to show we have much more than a breast to polish, caress or grope :) #thecityyoudontexpect
When you’re not getting pushed out of the way by a small Japanese woman with a bag twice her size and a killer elbow, Juliet’s courtyard can be really beautiful. While many people probably haven’t read Shakespeare’s play, she’s still one of the best known female characters of all time.
I think the most beautiful part of Juliet’s courtyard is the endless scribbles and letters, which cover most of the walls of the entryway. It’s graffiti in the name of love, and it has the stamp of youthfulness all over it. While it’s mostly adults clamoring to fondle Juliet, it’s the teenagers who huddle in corners with sharpies, leaving more lasting marks on the place, for better or for worse.
For me, Juliet’s courtyard is as much a tourist site as it is a pilgrimage site. For tourists, it’s the perfect photo-op. For the young and young-at-heart, it is hope made tangible that someday love will find them.
-PS: Come to Bologna!