I’m livin’ large in Estonia…and marveling at the exciting change this region is undergoing. On a visit to the Baltic region back in the 1980s, labor was cheaper than light bulbs…when touring museums, an old babushka would actually go through the museum with me turning on and off lights as we went from room to room.
Those days are long gone. Estonia’s thriving capital, Tallinn, is like a Petri dish of capitalism. Since Estonians won their freedom in 1991, it has blossomed. The country has the strongest economy, most freedoms, and highest standard of living of any republic that was part of the USSR. (Locals claim that, by some measures, they are now one of the freest countries on earth.)
While traveling here, you can’t help but ponder the great irony of Russia’s communist experiment. Statistically Russia–once the supposed champion of radical equality (as far as Leninism and Marxism was concerned)–is now infamous for having the worst equality. Estonians are much better off today than Russians not because they have more money per capita (they don’t), but because the wealth in this country is distributed much more evenly. Observing the differences between societies, it seems that the distribution of wealth, if you honestly get right down to it, is what much of politics is about.
Today, for my mid-morning coffee break, I stepped into a courtyard. At the entry the landlord hung a photo of the place in 2000…it looked recently bombed out. Today, it looks much the same but inhabited by thriving little businesses. I wanted to sit at the courtyard’s trendy little cafe with its wicker chairs rocking on the rough cobbles. The seat I wanted seemed empty but it had a vest hanging on it. So I looked for another empty spot…it had a vest too. I really, really needed a coffee. Then I realized every chair had a different vest hanging on it. Estonian chic. Tallinn is thriving with little creative businesses.
After traveling in Norway and Sweden, it’s refreshing to be in a cheap country again. Being able to order without regard to price stokes my appetite. And with the fierce language barrier in non-touristy eateries here, it’s good the economic stakes, when mis-ordering, are not high. (Imagine, there are only a million people who speak Estonian–a language related to just about nothing, yet spoken with a noticeable gusto. It occurred to me, I don’t know a single word in this language–making it a strong contender for my worst language in Europe.)
It poured down rain today…locals claim they really need the rain. But it makes my research so messy–balancing a goofy little umbrella on my head and shoulders, hovering over my treasured notebook, trying to keep it dry. I have a pocket sized black notebook (Moleskine…I’m evangelical about Moleskine books) and the part of my guidebook I’m currently working on (ripped out of the big book with the cover stapled on–so it’s both pocket-sized and official-looking). When my border scribbles and notes get wet, I get very anxious.
By the way, many travel writer’s pride themselves in not taking free rooms thinking that might corrupt their assessment. I take free rooms all the time and–don’t tell the hoteliers who host me–this is, ironically, not in their best interest. I must sleep in 70 hotels a year (140 nights, average 2 nights each). I can’t begin to actually sleep in each place I recommend. By sleeping (for free or otherwise) in a place, I catch things you wouldn’t catch otherwise. Last night: thin walls (persistent snorer), no dark window covering (big problem especially in the north, he “ran out of steam” in the remodel), and lumpy pillows (you don’t appreciate a good pillow until you sleep on giant cotton balls). His listing took a hit.
I was noticing how, for the first evening and morning of my time in Tallinn, I didn’t meet one American…no one recognized me. I was a little disappointed. There were lots of tourists…but nearly no Yankees. Then, the cruise ships unloaded their day-trippers. Wow, it was one big PBS love fest…old home week. I had travel buddies on each corner. There must be 50 Americans visiting via cruise ship here for every over land traveler. Estonia is being discovered and it’s about time.
Hi Rick. I visited Tallinn way back in 1993. Sounds like a lot of things have changed for the better since then. I am looking forward to returning one day. It is a great city.
I have had a great time using your books while traveling Europe.
Keep up the good work with the blogging, travel writing, and television producing.
Erik.
Hey Rick!
My husband and I have enjoyed watching you travel for years and in ’03 I finally got to fulfill a life long fantasy to travel Europe myself, with help from your books. (I thought it would help cure my wanderlust but it only created a monster!!!)It’s always funny to count how many tourists we see carrying your book. Even met a woman from South Africa with a copy. I have often wondered why you didn’t make them notebook style so that pages could be removed and then replaced. I really hate to just tear pages out and ruin the book!!! You could even sell updates in refill packets!
I have really been enjoying your travels as I anticipate my own next month. My newly married daughter has moved to Wales and we will make a side trip to Prague while we are visiting her. I anticipate many more trips to come too and will always turn to your books for help.
Thank you to you and your staff for all the good, down to earth advice and the many hours of enjoyment watching your show.
Sali
Ok Rick, spill the beans, which hotel in Tallin had the lumpy pillows, paper thin walls and see-through curtains? We’re leaving for Scandanavia in two weeks and can’t wait for the 2007 book.
Enquiring minds want to know! And we want a good night’s sleep in Estonia.
Thanks for the blog and for looking out for us. This is my ninth annual Rick Trip to Europe, and I’m always glad to have you with me every time.
Dear Rick,
When my family and I went to visit my husband’s good friend in Terschelling Island, Holland , we did not encounter one single American, but we felt totally comfortable visiting this beautiful resort town off the coast of North Sea. Terschelling Island is mostly visited by the Dutch and Germans. We really had a wonderful time not only spending time and enjoying the hopitality of our family friend, but also the local friendly Dutch there. We will definitely go back there again!
Rick, Terschelling Island is not in your guidebook, ever consider of visiting and put it in your map?
Rick,
My husband and I are off to Paris aug.20th for the third time.(Always with your books in hand.) We are fellow Edmonds dwellers. We are also going to venice for the first time This trip. Thanks for all your shared experience! Hope to run into you in Paris!
Sheila
Estonia is being discovered! I went to Estonia in 1998. Finally I can say I have been to a place before it was discovered!!
Hi Rick, I was in Estonia in 2002 the summer after I graduated high school. I’m interested in what you will have to say about it! I really enjoyed my stay. I stayed more in the university town of Tartu than Tallin. If you haven’t visited Tartu, I would highly recommend it. There’s a great little restaurant that needs to be in a guidebook! I wish I could remember what it was called, but it is inside an old magazine under a hill. The setting was perfect and the estonian food was superb! The parks, ruins, town square, and “kissing” fountain are definitely noteworthy as well. I hope you’re enjoying the estonian people as much as I did–reserved, but so hospitable and warm once you spend a bit of time with them. I still email back and forth with some of the friends I made.
Thanks for all your work, Rick! I’m a big fan. My friend Jennah and I meet together once a week to watch your DVDs and plan/dream about our upcoming 2008 Europe trip!
Wow…this is EXACTLY why I love Rick Steves so much and trust him so deeply. What a dry sense of humor. And honesty. I love it!
On my recent trip to Germany I visited Quedlinburg, in the former eastern German State of Saxon-Anhalt, where I actually stayed in a little town called Nachterstedt. I was interested in seeing the eastern part of Germany, which was virtually untouristed by anyone, nevermind Americans. My hotel (Zum Schwan) was delightful for it’s quirkiness-a parrot named Klara who lived in the bar kept us amused over breakfast, and Klaus and Gundela Respondek obviously put alot of effort into making the place comfortable and welcoming. As for the region, I don’t think I’d ever return, as it was mostly either worn out by the Soviet -era heavy industries or agricultural. There was not much to do, not much to see, but I found talking to Klaus about life in the former Workers and Peasants State very interesting. Efforts are being made to smarten things up, and I hope they do, because Quedlinburg was a beautiful old half-timbered city well worth visiting. My stay at the Zum Schwan made it worthwhile.
Tere Rick! Thanks for visiting Estonia. I have been there twice, back in 95 and 96. I spent some time in Tallinn and Tartu, have a friend who lived there for a year, and have an Estonian friend here in the US. Most of my time was spent with locals who served as translators and became friends. I agree with Karina that you HAVE to go to Tartu. As the man behind Europe Through the Back Door, there is no more back door place for culture, people, and the Estonian experience than Tartu.
Tartu is a college town with a small town feel full of locals and a place yet to explored by many. I almost don’t want to recommend it because it is still so free from tourists. The main square in Tartu is called Raekoja plats. It is just like so many of the wonderful squares in many of your favorite European towns. It has a number of beautiful parks, old buildings, history, and culture. And with so many college students, it is easy to find people who speak English.
Tartu is truly a back door place to be explore and you there is plenty of history, culture, and people to explore wih enough english speaking students to help you around the town and the language barrier.
Karina, you are correct about the gunpowder restaurant and it is a wonderful experience in Tartu. The name of it is Püssirohukelder.
And to help you out Rick, here are some Estonian phrases:
Tere – hello
Minu nimi on – My name is
Jah, ei – yes, no
Palun – please
Tanan – Thank you
Kas te juhataksite mind…? – Could you direct me to…?
…tualettruumi? – the bathroom
Ma otsin … – I’m looking for
Kui palju? – How much
avatud/suletud – open/closed
uks, kaks, kolm, neli, viis, kuus, seitse, kaheksa, uheksa, kumme – 1,2,3…10
I hope this helps and go enjoy Estonia outside of Tallinn!
Jeremy
One thing to clarify in Rick’s observations is that the Estonian language is very closely related to Finnish. But that still leaves both these languages out on their own – they are not similar to much else.
Hungarian is also similar to Finnish and Estonian as it is a distant relative of those languages. However, it is probably the most unique of any European language but does have relatives in Finnish and Estonian.
I visited Tallin for a week in June, 2004. I was fortunate to have contact with a Russian family, who Helped guide us and entertain during our stay. A highlight was White Nights. I was surprised at the level of restoration of old town, the ease of getting around, and finding communication easy as most younger Estonians speak English. Lodging was cheap in a bed and breakfast, the host also did tour guides using a minivan. No rain in June!! My trip was combined with a 3day cruise to St. Petersburg from Helsinki which gave us a peak at Russian culture. All in all,it was a perfect 2 week trip at a reasonable cost. Staying in Tallin is a fraction of the cost of staying in Helsinki.