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| While gourmet dining in Norway comes with appetite-ruining prices, simple plates of the day (with free, good water and all the potatoes you want) make an affordable, if forgettable, $20 meal — add a beer and your $20 meal becomes a $30 meal. Enlarge photo |
Norway has very good beer that comes with a price — causing many to split just one. Enlarge photo |
When I’m in Norway, I’m always amazed at how clear it is to me that I am with my people. (Three of my grandparents left hard times in Norway for hard times with promise in the USA.) I remember once being in Sweden, thinking, “Yes, these are my people.” Then I crossed the border into Norway and, while wandering through the tidy pedestrian shopping streets in the first town, I realized, “No, those weren’t my people…these are my people.”
While I love traveling here, this year I find my people are somewhere between frugal, cheap, industrious, and greedy. Their tourist trade is built upon a gift from God: incredible nature. Their economy is founded upon another gift from God: lots of oil. Researching and updating my guidebook here — sorting through all the creative marketing tricks masquerading as “deals” while jacking up all the prices listed — I can’t help but think, “These people are doing everything they can to get more business…except lower prices.”
While the rest of Europe seems to be holding prices steady during these tough economic times, everything here costs more kroner. People are moping about how slow business is and don’t see how their prices drive travelers away. For example, the Bergen Card (a 24-hour tourist pass) gets more expensive and less helpful every year. Last year the aquarium was included. This year it’s covered only in the winter. Who comes to Bergen to see an aquarium in the winter?
Coffee (at $4 a cup) tastes both sour and bitter to me. It’s the only place where I “cut the taste” with a couple sugar cubes. The beer, while very good, costs $8 a glass. Budget travelers find some solace in the fact that water is served free and you get seconds on potatoes if you like. So, a $25 dinner plate can easily amount to a $25 meal — perfectly affordable. I found that some fjord-country hotels empathize with the situation and welcome travelers at breakfast to make a sandwich (even providing a little baggie) to go for a light lunch.
Travelers might sense particularly aggressive business practices in fjord country, where there is only tourist travel and no business travel. Hotels, restaurants, and tour companies have a short two-month season in which to make their hay. It’s deadly quiet even in early June or early September. And with the slow economy bringing tourism down this summer, I imagine they are none too confident.
God may have given Norway its incredible scenery and its rich oil reserves, but they need to earn their tourism. Norway, my people, I’m glad you get the cushiest perks in Europe for your high taxes (from great schools and paid paternal leave to a plush retirement). But give your visitors a free public toilet once in a while.
Really appreciate the insights. These Norwegian folks are going to learn the hard way that travelers, even relatively affluent tourists, don’t like being gouged. “Take it or leave it” is not a good philosophy in the business world when there are other places to see with beautiful scenery: Patagonia; Switzerland; Alaska; Hawaii; The Cascades; northeast Brazil and the South Island of New Zealand with its Milford Sound come to mind. What is it they say? The past does not repeat itself. But it often rhymes. Watch out Norway. You may not be on top for tourism much longer.
I admire your willingness to critique ‘your’ people. You obviously appreciate people in Norway, America and around the world. Here’s to traveling as political action. May every country welcome tourists with reasonable prices and free toilets. May all your guides develop empathy for older tourists with less bladder capactity. May one of your kids take over your company in the distant, distant future.
Well said, Larry. And Rick, glad you’re blogging again. Always an adventure.
Rick, just a perfect match to your blog on norway was listening to public radio this morning. You were interviewed on a favorite program of mine, “to the best of our knowledge.” Blessed here with multiple public broadcasters, my choice picks up bbc world news every day from 2 a.m. until 7 a.m. then normally switches to jefferson public radio/npr. But on sunday bbc is followed by wisconsin public radio/pri. including “to the…” which talked with you on “travel as a political act”. Reminding me of the tavis smiley show recently was your focus on visiting el salvador during the anniversity of bishop romero’s murder. Where do we put our priority every day as we make choices? How do we expend our resources, energy and time? Travel broadens our minds, makes us wiser, but not always happier. You often repeat that view and the thought fits your blog about norway. Those people and things we love may not make the best choices for the long run. This can apply to our nation, our selves, our children and businesses who serve us. Rick, this traveler is always glad to hear, read and see your take on our world. Larry from springfield staying tuned.
Norway has ALWAYS been expensive. 15 years ago when we went there a plain Burger King hamburger was the equivalent of $4.30. We’ve never found one higher. But I asked a local if the salaries are high enough to support these prices, and he said yes. After all, education is paid for through college; health care and old age are taken care of too. How far would YOUR salary go without those expense? As for tourists….if no one comes they might lower prices, but tourists who really want to enjoy Norway will make the sacrifice and pay the price–and the scenery is worth it!
Rick….. you’ve been to Europe enough to know that NOTHING is free! I recall last summer when buying a few items in a grocery store just outside of Hall (on our way back from Walderalm), when the checker asked if I’d like a bag. I said “yes” and she quickly ‘scanned’ one and put my stuff in it! I was flabergasted!I think the charge as around .15E; not much money but……
Great article, Rick! It brings back good memories of my own trip to Norway a couple of summers ago. I’d love if you, and your readers took a look at my travel blog for an article I published and photos I took while in norway: http://bit.ly/2hA6Qj Cheers!
Wow, so nice to see someone stick up for the consumer. Rick, bravo on pointing out Norway’s inability to bring down prices to stay competitive. Their summer season is like Ski season in the States, short and expensive.
I concur with the above comments. Last summer I traveled to Norway. Prices were very high — a bottle of water in Oslo cost over $5. and there was NO apology from the Norwegians for being so expensive. However, on the second part of our trip, we travelled to Bjornevaag – our ancestoral home. We met for the first time many relatives – most had never heard of our branch of the family. That did not matter – the generosity and hositality were amazing! Even exceeding the standards of America! The amount of food we were given at every home we visited was overwhelming– so that is my advice if you are looking to travel cheaply — find your family roots and they will feed you well!
My Norwegian grandfather would have shuddered at a Norwegian thinking while in Sweden that “these are my people.” I fondly remember him singing a little ditty that went something like this: “Ten thousand Swedes went thru the weeds, chasing one Norwegian.”
I love reading about Norway. All my great-grandparents came from Norway and no one married out til this generation, so myfamily culturally identifies as Norwegian. (Can you say lutefisk at Christmas?) I travelled here 18 years ago with family and both my sister and I also felt that incredible vomfort that this felt like home. Everyone looks like a cousin, and we met many of them who did look uncanny like our 3rd generation American cousins. I can hardly wait to go back again and find family along the western fjord coast.
I wondered where you were! I was just pondering a vacation to see “my people” so I checked your blog and found you there. Thanks for the tips…not sure I want to go now :) Think I’ll go back to Jackie’s blog now….she’s better looking ! See ya soon!
Interesting…my great grandfather came from Arendal. The strict religious beliefs still are maintained in part of the family…no drink, etc. Amazing that this has persisted this long On BBC America a few weeks ago, there was an interesting segment on Norway and the World Recession. There is none in Norway. Their banks are fine because they did not do all that crazy mortgage investment everyone else did. And the Norwegians SAVE!!!!! They don’t tend to overconsume. So they seem to know something we don’t and all those social benefits!! I would happily pay more in taxes to have the kind of security they have.
When people are faced with having to modify how they consume food, people tend to worry more about what they would lose instead everything they’re gaining. That mentality is seen in our attitudes on taxes, as well. (Great post MaryAnn!)
Loraine: I’m very curious where you bought your water at $5. As everywhere else prices at tourist attractions are much higher than less “touristy” spots. Buy water, beer and things you need on the run in supermarkets. Many of them offer sandwiches, salads, fried chicken, meatballs, pies and lots of other things you can enjoy in any park or bench at much lower cost than in a restaurant. Drink tapwater (which is fine) with your meal in restaurants to save some money. Use f.ex tripadvisor.com and get LOTS of useful tips from other travellers and local experts. Salaries in Norway are high as Judith Siess mentioned. Myself I earn approx. $4800 ($1=6,3 NOK. 100 NOK= $15.8) per month when the taxes has been withdrawn, and I think that’s quite an average salary in Norway. This might give you an idea of why everything is so expensive here.
Amen, brother. I just got back yesterday, and I am actually looking FORWARD to spending $4 on a Starbuck’s caramel macchiato…because the same would’ve cost $9 in Bergen. $19 for vegetarian lasagna & salad that came with packaged dressing, 200NOK to get into the sad Bergen aquarium, 82NOK ($14!) for one beer at the Hotel Admiral…I’m glad the views, at least, are free. For now.
I’ve always wanted to visit Norway, and my brother and i are thinking about going next year. I’m well aware of Norways reputation as an expensive place, and am currently hard at work looking for ways to cut costs. This past year i spent two weeks hiking in Berchtesgaden, Germany, where everything was affordable, comfortable, welcoming, and convenient. Your comments on the Norwegians refusal to make their country a more affordable welcoming destination is right on the mark. The contrast of the difficulties of Norway and the ease of Germany is striking. I’m wondering, however, if prices are somewhat better out in the countryside, away from the larger cities or touristy areas. We are going to visit our family’s farm out in the hinterlands of Valdres.Even so, as I’ve been planning this trip I feel more than alittle resentful – if the Germans can rent a B+B room for $35. a night, why is the same room roughly $100. or more in Norway? If I can rent a car for $49. a day in Sweden, why is it $79. in Norway? I have a budget to stick to, and if it looks like I won’t be able to afford Norway, I’ll go back to Berchtesgaden, where i know I’ll be welcomed with honest, reasonable costs for visitors.
We visited our daughter’s family in Oslo two years ago. While things are very expensive there, we learned a couple of tricks. Get lunch at a deli and take it outside to eat. Takeaway food is cheaper because salaries for wait staff provide a living wage. We, too, needed to find a restroom. Tried the university; no card to get in. Went to the Oslo City Hall, figuring that a building so starkly emblematic of being the people’s hall would have free facilities. Score! It’s conveniently located. Thanks for teaching me to think like a local. (I wish our children were as healthy as those in Norway–everyday outside play, healthy food, free medical care and no TV pressure to buy junky toys or food.)
I have not personally been to Norway even though they are ‘my people’ also. However my daughter studied there during her jr. year at California Lutheran University twenty years ago. The prices were so high there that Oslo was rated as he second most expensive city in the world after Hong Kong. Cheese was $17.00 per pound. I have just spent 6 months with her & her family in Switzerland and the prices here are about the same as the ones I’m hearing from Norway. Also, very few people here speak English. Maybe in the larger cities and the tourist areas, but not out among the population in the smaller towns.
I have wondered where you are, how you are. I LOVE your series but I have noticed that they are reruns of previous trips, so again: Where are you, how are you and when will we see you traveling again? Tracy
I don’t know about Norway, but I spent a year in Sweden, and otherwise am a resident in Germany – if you’re not attached to Norway for family reasons but just want to experience Northern Europe – I guarantee you will have a lot better time in Germany. Everything from transportation to eating well, museums etc. far superior, and are outstanding value. In Germany the industry brings in the big money, they don’t have to fleece the tourists, or their own people.
Hi all, I have never been to Norway myself and will mention an experience I recently had in Italy… I was taken aback by how expensive Italy is… especially when it came to “touristy” places… I have seen 15Euro glasses of beer or 4,5Euro cups of coffee. Now in Italy unlike in Norway salaries are not so high, so the whole situation smacks of one giant rip-off factory.
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