A year ago I was excited about Tangier in Morocco and wrote on this blog, “It’s no longer the Tijuana of Africa.” I didn’t realize I’d touch a nerve with people who think TJ is notthe armpit of North America.
So I went to Tijuana this weekend to give it a second look. Okay, I admit, I’ve never been there … so I’d give it a first look. (I also wanted to be in a rough border town, where First World meets Developing World, as I continue to work on my upcoming book about the value of travel as a political act.)
I had a great time. While TJ is not a destination most would fly to in itself, as a side trip from San Diego or a stop while heading south, visiting it is a great experience. As an observer of the cultural and economic riptides created where two worlds collide, it’s a fascinating case study.
At what locals claim is the busiest international border in the world, 24 lanes are busy with traffic — 24/7. It’s easy to get out of the USA … tough to get back in. A handy trolley zips tourists from San Diego literally to the border for $3 (it also takes Mexican workers into San Diego on a daily commute that thousands make). Drivers can park within 100 yards of the border for $8 a day. Pedestrians step right in without showing a passport, power past the trinket stalls and aggressive cabbies, and head for the towering arch that marks the start of Revolution Avenue (and all the fun).
Getting out of Mexico is different. Pedestrians shuffle fairly quickly through an officious passport check. Cars are generally stacked up for a several-hour wait. As taxis are dirt cheap and there’s always a very long wait to drive north across the border, there’s no reason to drive in if you’re just visiting TJ.
Tijuana, barely a century old, thrives today with 1.5 million people. A local explained there’s a big funnel from Mexico to the USA and this is the little hole through which everything flows. While there’s the cross border business — legal and illegal — there’s also a thriving local industry stoked by 650 maquiladoras:assembly factories for First World manufacturers that locate here for the cheap labor. With plants for companies such as Samsung, Sony, and Hitachi, more TVs are assembled here than in any other city.
Throughout Mexico, Tijuana is considered a place of opportunity. With this thriving economy comes a thriving culture: music, arts, an impressive cultural center, and lots of people who love San Diego’s public television station. Everywhere I walked, I met locals who were regular viewers of my travel show on KPBS — something I expect when I cross the border to the north and visit Canadians in Vancouver but something I didn’t even consider in the south.
The city, while ramshackle architecturally, is impressively clean. The streets were free of litter. Locals thank their new government that “gets things done.”
Tijuana’s tiny old town, which radiates from the arch, feels like ramshackle 1950s. You can’t miss all the things people come to a border town for: plastic surgery, pharmaceuticals without prescriptions, dentistry, cheap hair cuts, Cuban cigars, and of course jumping beans. The kitsch is riveting: glow-in-the-dark tattoos, hucksters hollering “Hello, 100 percent off today!”, donkeys painted like zebras on each street corner, ready for you to don a sombrero and pose for a photo.
Bars that feel like saloons come with cheap prostitutes wearing down their stiletto heels at their doors. Checking out a few $20 hotels, I struggled by transvestites patiently waiting for something in the lobbies … while watching Law and Order: Special Victims Unit. Apparently, the siesta is alive and well, as these places also rent rooms by the hour. (While there is a hotel strip with big high-rise places, there are plenty of decent places — without company for hire in the lobbies — renting $40 rooms on or near Revolution Avenue.)
After the salesman promised me it came with a fine guided narration in English, I hopped onto a two-hour, $10 bus tour. It was a great tour — but with no guide. I chatted the best I could with the driver for the duration. He said the USA and Mexico are brothers, stuck together. If the US gets the flu, Mexico gets pneumonia. He explained the youth culture is crazy about Japan these days, explaining all the colorfully painted hair and people dressed up as different pop culture characters. Hopping off the open top tour bus at the cathedral, I joined a Mass.
Grabbing a pew in the cathedral, I sat there with hundreds of Mexicans, enjoying a vivid reminder that the gang the tourist sees along Revolution Avenue and in front of the saloons is photogenic but not representative. This was the real Tijuana. Surrounded by well-worn people, I pondered how all were at various stages on the same ride up and down the parabolas of their respective lives. These people, taking an hour out of their Sundays to worship, wearing crude t-shirts, hooded sweatshirts, and shoes without arch support picked up for $3 at a street market, were the Joe Six-Packs and Hockey Moms of their world.
And as I poured out of that church with all those people and bought a bag of fresh baked churros encrusted in sugar, it occurred to me how wrong I was to consider Tijuana the armpit of the Western Hemisphere.
Great blog entry- this is great seeing something new through your eyes. I have never been to Mexico but 90 percent of my friends have gone for various reasons. Some for great spas some for scuba diving and some just to hang out on the beaches. And don;t feel bad about the armpit business we all do that…here in Ga it is “Oh going to Panama City, the redneck riviera?” It’s just one of those things when you hear Panama City Florida just spills out over your tongue before you even think about it. Again great blog, don’t want to visit there but I feel like I have after reading what you wrote.
My favorite entries are the ones that have you visiting a place for the first time. You remark on the unremarkable, but seem to notice the things that I find the most interesting. Keep up the good work. P.S. I love the words in your werification.
Rick ………………. Armpitty???? ………You certainly have a way of putting things that is unique and often funny……..You do a great job of giving us the sights, sounds, smells and feel of your visit to TJ…….interesting city….20 years since I was last there….now want to return when I get a chance……..all the best….
Rick – probably one of your best blogs. I enjoy your reviews on a first visit somewhere, you make it come alive for all those who have not yet been. It’s been many years since I was last in TJ – but I also saw more than just a border town with alot of photo ops.
Hi Rick. I’d like to add to the armpitty-ness of TJ. This is probably something characteristic of wild West sort of places, but a few years ago my family and I had a very sour experience in TJ. We headed to Encinada and Rosarito (south of TJ) for the day and on our way back in trying to get back into the US, we couldn’t find the border crossing. Long story short, we asked for directions from a shady cop and got swindled out of $60USD, threatening to put us in jail for nothing we did. He knew he was in he wrong and was very shady about it, constantly looking around and telling us to put the money in our rental car pamphlet. I’m still angry about this today and wanted to complain to some kind of official–tourism bureau, local govt, anyone?? But honestly, I imagine it would just vaporize. Perhaps you have some tips of the proper channel to direct something of this nature? Love your blog and books, btw.
Rick….. I really thought you’d pick Wasilla, AK as the armpit of North America, given your recent blogs! :-) Maybe that should be your next ‘first look’!
The first time I used the Armpit comment was at the Buna campsite, on August 9, 1985, in a nice location just a few miles from The Beautiful Bridge at Mostar, Yugoslavia. The English lady we met was an elected city official, and a member of the British Labor Party, and she said that Thatcher would lose badly in the next election. This lady said the British Labor Party will do every thing right, and the steel workers and others must be put back to work. I mentioned today’s automobiles use 1000 pounds less steel than 10 years ago, so should we again build heavy cars? She was schocked. I then said that tens of thousands of gas station workers are out of work because autos get 25 miles per gallon instead of six or eight, so should we build cars that use a lot of gas? She said no no, and had no idea what to do, but said they (labor party) would do it right. She then said President Reagan was in big trouble in the US, everyone hated him, and he would soon be impeached. I reminded her Reagan had just won an election by a landslide, and was very popular. I asked where she had gotten her information. She had recently been to New York City and attended a meeting at Hunter College, and everyone there hated Reagan. I told her, “Going to a college in New York City to learn about the political health of the US, is like going to a Doctor for a physical exam, and he only looks at your armpits!†Armpit was not what I had in mind, but I was being polite at the time! This was later printed as a Letter to the Editor, in the LA Times. === Oh my, the verify word is about OBamBam and the Demorats, it is “morons.”
Excellent post Rick. I have been very critical of some of your political positions (or rather political non-positions) in the past, but your post above shows why you are the best travel writer around. Frank
C’mon Rick. Yeah, ive been to TJ too. It does have some things to offer. but lets face it, you nailed it with the arm pit remark. dont worry about being politcally correct. TJ is a dump and there are far better places in mexico. I recommend taxco, or guadalajara.
Rick, I always enjoy your interesting and colourful Blogs, regardless of the location! It’s been many years since I’ve been in Tijuana (I was driving to Ensenada – had to buy supplementary car insurance at the border). As I recall, my opinion at the time wasn’t entirely “complimentary” regarding TJ. However, you’ve shown a somewhat different view, so perhaps I’ll try to get back there some day (probably after more exploring in Europe though, and a few more of your excellent tours).
Rick, interesting to read your impressions of Tijuana. I have never been there. Living in the mid-west the Yucatan is easier to get to. If one gets a chance to go to the Yucatan, I urge them to do so. Cancun is too much of a tourist trap for me, but excellent to fly in and out of because of low airfares and non-stop flights. One should go to Valladolid and Merida asap. To experience some Mayan culture visit Tekak, Ticul, Oxkutzcab, Xul, and Yaxhachen. Two websites with info: http://www.yucantantoday.com and http://www.yucatanliving.com
I have not been to Tijuana. I do hear, of course, that there is this one minor problem … http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/10/07/AR2008100701458.html
Pardon. Just now read your next post.
Hi Rick. I’ve been to TJ more times than I can count (both on foot and by car) and am just coming off of living in Monterrey (south of Texas) for under a year. I agree with you that there are worse places in North America than Tijuana, but not many. Tijuana is many things, but clean is certainly NOT one of them. That 5th comment hit the nail on the head when it comes to police corruption and how they prey on the unsuspecting tourist.
Hi Rick! You had me at “Tangier”. I had the pleasure of visiting Morocco earlier this year with a few friends, and our first stop was a mere few hours in Tangier. Our guide caught us up to speed on the history of the city, and with exuberant pride, showed us all around – both by car & by foot. The Medina here seemed more upbeat than the Medina in Marrakech – this surprised me quite a bit as the initial emphasis of our Moroccan adventure seemed to focus on the latter city. Regardless, I’ve not yet been to Tijuana, but will be in San Diego within the next few weeks. Perhaps I’ll take a jaunt down. Best, Suz (a.k.a. Lil’ Boozie) “3 Troopin Travelers”
I cant help but to leave one more comment about TJ. Those who consider TJ and baja to be a “nice place” have never driven down the coast. The police are worse than than the pickpockets, and scam artists. It is nerve racking tryin gto make it to your destination without being pulled over even if you are doing nothing wrong. If you get pulled over by the police it is difficult to get away without having to pay a BS ticket of some sort. I speak spanish, and that doesnt even help. I wouldnt recommend “exploring” TJ, or Baja, to any American or foreign tourist without proper research. Acomodations should be set up prior to your visit. and watch where you park your car, cuz it will get jacked. And bring a spare because there is a high percentage of getting a nail or some sort in your tire while driving through. if it wasnt for the good surf on Baja, i would probably never go there.
Hi Rick, it is always an amazing learning experience to watch your PBS (OPB) travel programs. Watching them before or after we have traveled to the place or country you are showing at that time, has been educational and memorable. I need to say that reading your blog on Tijuana, just confirmed how professional you are in what you do. I was born in Mexicali, Baja Calif., 2 hours from Tijuana, so I can say that Tijuana was my next door neighbor’s house. I have been living in the States for the past 16 years, but I visit my hometown at least once a year and always fly to San Diego and across the border. I can see that you are very genuine on your commentaries, I know exactly what you are talking about, but I also understand other people’s experiences. Tijuana now looks cleaner, because of its present leaders; but like any other place in the world, it has its good side and a not a very good side.I like the way you put it, you give the travelers the chance to experience Tijuana by themselves, just like you do in all your programs. Thank you so much for what you do. See you in your next program.
Rick – as the second-largest city on the West Coast of North America (believe it or not), there are a lot of people in Tijuana who will really appreciate your comments. I will personally make sure the City Conventioan & Tourism Bureau (COTUCO) is aware of your article. Our firm is working with the City of Tijuana to try to help them get the word out that — while it is not a place with dramatic architecture and doesn’t quite have the history of other areas of Mexico — it DOES have it’s own dynamic energy and makes it still a great place to visit. Not typical Mexico, not like other border towns, Tijuana has an international feel that will continue to grow through the next few decades. Its restaurants are still in many ways finer than even San Diego, and while poverty has inevitably led to some corrupt practices in the past, the current Mayor is doing what he can to help change that (despite the incredibly strong and threatening influence from those that are supplying drugs to the North of Tijuana). Believe it or not (go ahead and change the stats), Tijuana is still statistically safer than many big cities in the US (New Orleans, Detroit, and even St. Louis, among them). Next time you come, please call the toll-free Tijuana Tourism line at 1-877-775-2417 or email them at intaffairs@tijuanaonline.org — that goes for those that may have questions or even complaints, as well (yes, they do track complaints and try to help when tourists have problems). Again, very much apppreciate both your original and follow up comments on Tijuana. We know she’s not “pretty”, but she’s a maturing city of 1.6-1.7 million people — and your honest and objective comments are very much appreciated.
Its true I’ve seen your program on KPBS and its really interesting and I’m glad you visit my city (TIJUANA) and truly glad you didn’t stare at the bad things That many people say my city has, I’m guessing you didn’t visit EL HIPODROMO or some of our many PLAZAS that we have, or tasted a taco de carne asada, but Ii hope you have a chance to visit us again an find out that there is a lot more than just the avenida Revolucion Regards, Ricardo. Tijuana Baja California Mexico
rick interesting views but to be frank, consider yourself lucky. Tijuana despite whatever PR campaign of the season seek to allege, the place is lawless and gringos are marked for exploitation by most everyone from the moment your enter until the moment your leave. Forget about all the so called hotlines and bureaus; they’re a PR ploy and little else. There are plenty of San Diego areas that offer the full flavor of Mexico without 1/100 of the risk… Speaking of armpitty its funny because the place used to be known as EL “Poso Del Mundo” the “pit of the earth” and should you have the insane desire to venture off into many of the off-the beaten path youre likely to see why… whatever you do, DONT ever wear a Hawaiian shirt and drive a nice car there.. you’ll likeky find yourself paying the ‘dumb gringo tax or worse… Best of luck
Good to know that you where here in Tij. next time inquire about the good restaurants that we have, dont forget to try the lobster in Rosarito, I was born in San Diego and have lived in this city 64 years, so I go back an forth to the U.S.A. and Mex. almost every day. Its wonderful to enjoy both cultures, here in T.J a lot of people enjoy your traveling programs, and when Ihave being in Europe I carried your books.