It’s time to plan holiday travels. I was tempted to go to Italy and enjoy the good life with mittens and a scarf in Rome and Florence, or perhaps do a Barcelona-Madrid-Lisbon loop (as my daughter Jackie did recently ‘ a great itinerary).
But I decided to stay in our hemisphere and head south. My decision: Three days each in Managua, San Salvador, and Mexico City, with Christmas in Managua and New Year’s in Mexico City. I needed some heat…both in the weather, and in connecting with what’s going on with people’s struggles in Latin America.
I just talked with Paul Theroux for my radio show yesterday, and he stressed the importance of not just flying from capital city to capital city. He said that to really connect with a country, you need to cross borders on the ground and travel through the bush.
But I’m doing exactly the opposite ‘ flying to three great capitals. I’d love any suggestions on how I might enjoy and be inspired by my time there. Any ideas? Thanks…and happy Thanksgiving!
Well first I hope you are not going to be there alone! I think for Christmas you should spend it in a small resort. I have read that there are great Spa resort in Nicaraugua now, similar to Costa Rica, it would be great to be pampered and relax in the warmth and beauty. I am not sure that I would be happy spending New Years in Mexico City, so much pollution, you will come back with a sinus infection and so much horrible crime to tourists and each other over the drug wars. You might pick somewhere else in the south. Happy Hollidays! Lots to be thankful for.
Careful in Mexico City. Kidnappers might release you ala O`Henry`s Ransom of Red Chief (because you talk so much) – but then again they might demand all your copies of Travel As A Political Act as ransom.
Hi Rick – we talked about Mexico on your show a couple weeks back. Forget about worrying about sinus infections and horrible crime to tourists. (As an aside, where do these conservative, scared folks who read your blog come from?!) I was well taken care of in Mexico City with lots of help from strangers. Have a coffee as the sun sets at the cafe in the department store across from the Palacio des Bellas Artes. Coyocan neighborhood is off the beaten track and has a fun people watching at their market at night. Check out couchsurfing.com to meet up with locals, even if you don`t surf their couch, many are interested in doing coffee or dinner.
Rick, Nicaragua will be great, but I don`t think there is too much to do in Managua. I`d head to Granada (about an hour away), possibly stopping in Massaya for the craft market and volcano. Granada is beautiful, great colonial architecture, some good restaurants, and close to the lake and cloud forest. It doesn`t sound like you`ll have a ton of time, so the twin volcano Island of Ometepe in Lake Nicaragua is probably out of the question. However, if time allows, it is definitely worth checking out. Some great beaches north of San Juan del Sur. Beaches at Morgan`s Rock-Maigual area are unreal.
try not to look like a member of the police force in mexico. they have a pretty short life expectancy there.
Sorry, I don`t have any suggestions, but I just want to say that I wish you would consider making a sequal to your European Christmas special. We love it and it`s become a family tradition to watch it every year. Think of all those other cultures you could feature! I`d love to see Christmas in Eastern Europe, the Middle East and Latin America.
You might contact another PBS Rick for ideas on Mexico City–Rick Bayless of Mexico One Plate At A Time.
Hey Rick: Go check out Frida Kahlo`s house while you are in Mexico City…it`s really cool. Also if you haven`t been ou to the Pyramids…you should check it out. I was almost out of oxygen by the time I got to the top step of the Sun temple.
I would suggest the following: 1. Register with the State Department[INVALID]in case things get crazy in the areas you are going. 2. Read the security information not only from the US but other major western countries[INVALID]if they say something along the same lines pay attention.
In Mexico City in 1973, on a Junior High trip to Mexico, I had the best pineapple of my life from a vendor on the street. I`m sure it had been picked that day. Nowadays in the USA we get produce from around the wold year-round, but there`s nothing like fruit from the source, in-season. I remember you like yours with salt, so if you find pineapple in a market (or from an acceptable street vendor) ask for pina con sal. Fresh papaya juice was also outstanding back then. Feliz Navidad & Prospero Ano Nuevo
Ok, so perhaps the Italics function doesn`t work as I expected on this blog, for the “pina con sal” in the post above. Pronounce it like “peen-ya cone sawl.” Enjoy!
Most of the informed people who write suggestions come from the school of hard knocks, Megan.
Hi, I`ve traveled to El Salvador a few times. To connect with the struggles of the Salvadorans – don`t miss the Hospitalita – where Bishop Oscar Romero was killed at the start of the war and the museum created at the UCA where several catholic priests were killed at the end. Cafe Miranda is lovely and has a zip line. El Salvador is small and really outsde of the city is more interesting. Suchitoto is a lovely colonial town on a pretty lake – there are several lovely hotels. Rancho Estero Y Mar is a fun resort on the coast and very close to the airport, great for connections. Lake Coatepque, Ataco, Ruta de la Flores all great. El Jardin is a lovely hotel near Ataco. Hire a driver.
I am anything but a CONSERVATIVE and have traveled all over the world and sorry it is my opionion that Mexico is not a safe place!!! My husband in law enforcement has not been able to travel to Mexico because if they find out you have anything to do with USA law enforment you will be killed. These are notices that have come across his desk for years. I have been in many parts of Central America and it is just beautiful there. Rick asked for suggestions and that is just my opinion. I think there are many places that are wonderful and “I” would not spend my money in a place that is lawless and contributes to drugs and crime in the USA
In Nicaragua, for Christmas I suggest you visit Iglesia Luterana “Fe y Esperanza,” a sister parish of ours for 20 years. I have visited with a group from our church visits for the past six summers. The new Catholic Cathedral is interesting with its half-sphere domes and tall wooden doors along the sides. Up on the hill next to Laguna de Tiscapa is the sillhouette of Sandino and a small museum. When we eat out we go to the comedors or lunchtime “buffets” that local working people visit rather than tourist restaurants. You can shop in La Union (like a US supermarket) or Pali, which is more Nicaraguan. You can go to the real markets in Managua (with food and household goods as well as tourist items) or the tourist market in Masaya. Church address: Estatua de Monseñor Lezcano 6 y ½ cuadras al lago, Teléfono: 2-66-4467, 254-7239
Whenever my wife and I travel to a new city we try to attend a performance by that city`s symphony or similar event. We are classical musicians and we`re partly inspired by your similar suggestions, so we aren`t telling you anything you don`t already know. But its a great way to enjoy the locals enjoying their arts programs and at this time of year there are usually a lot of great performances to choose from.
Rick – I have to agree with JustGriff above. There isn`t a lot to see or do in Managua because most of the tourist sites were damaged or destroyed in the 1972 (?) earthquake. Do as JustGriff states and head to Granada, which is where I will probably visit next year. Now, I just returned from the Corn Islands two weeks ago. If you REALLY want to see the state of Latin America, wander through town on Big Corn Island. I can`t speak about San Salvador as I`ve never been there. As far as Mexico City is concerned, visit their fabulous (and exhausting) museum of anthropology, take a tour of the bell tower at the Catedral Metropolitana, and (as Kathleen pointed out) visit the house where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera lived for a few years (I think it`s called The Blue House and it`s in Coyoacan).
I think it`s great that conservatives, liberals, and apoliticals alike read Rick`s blog. If we all limited ourselves to reading things that mirrored our current ideologies, how would we ever learn anything new or be challenged to reconsider our beliefs?
In El Salvador check out the Mayan sites and what I was told is the second largest US embassy in the world. In the State of Guanajuato Mexico we found no drug related problems.
My sister and I went backpacking in Nicaragua 4 years ago and I LOVED it. I am such a Europhile that I was only tepidly excited when planning the trip. Well, I felt like a whole new world opened up to me. We covered a lot of ground in just one week (my sister had lived there for a year and knew the country, as well as Spanish pretty well). We took the ferry over to the island of Ometepe in Lake Nicaruagua as the sun was setting. It was so beautiful. We also went to Granada (definitely go there), and also traveled up to Miraflor and stayed in a cabin in the cloud forest. We also went to Laguna de Apoyo, a beautiful volcanic lake. I would love to go back to that area……someday. In the meantime, I`m learning Spanish on the Rosetta Stone program my husband got me. Once I am proficient enough, we will go.
Mexico City is a great place, you need to be careful but it is not dangerous if you are smart about it. I have read your books and so I would like to think I understand your tastes in food. That said, you definitely need to go to Tortas Armandos which is near the Hidalgo metro stop near the Alameda. It is a few blocks back from the metro stop near the Hotel Fontan. It is orange and has a yellow entry awning with green text. Order the torta al pastor con queso. I think you would enjoy it very much.
I lived in Mexico City for 6 years. New Years Eve might not have been the best choice of holiday for DF. It is generally a family night. There aren`t a lot of clubs etc. to party at. What places do have dinner or any type of celebration are usually private parties or you need to have made the reservations a couple of months ago or more. You will see everyone from great grandma to the new born out that night with even Sanborns taking reservations for late to midnight dinner. Hope you have some contacts there to show you a nice time that night.
We live in Matagalpa and were thinking of going down to Managua for Christmas (2 hours away). Went to Granada, Masaya, and Laguna de Apoyo a few years ago during Semana Santa and it was great. Curious to find out what you`ve ultimately decided to do in/around Managua.