You know I love Italy. And because of that, its exasperating bureaucracy and inability to purge corruption from its civil servants “cuts my heart” (as people say here). The current scandal rocking the Cinque Terre National Park is a good example of persistent corruption. (I’ll talk bureaucracy in my next post.) Here’s a sidebar I just added to the next edition of my guidebook on the region:
Since its creation in 1999, the Cinque Terre National Marine Park has brought lots of good things to the area: money (visitors pay about €5 a day to hike the trails), new regulations to protect wildlife, and improved walkways, trails, beaches, breakwaters, and docks. There are park-sponsored information centers and even tiny folk museums.
The vision of the park was exciting ‘ everyone united and thinking creatively for the good of nature, the local communities, and their many visitors. The park administrators were well on their way to creating something truly unique in Europe. But, as is so often the case in Italy, the men entrusted to lead were corrupted by power and money. And, rather than stop them, many of those under the park leaders scrambled to win their favor and get in on the job security and easy money. The result is a vision in shambles and a park in disarray.
The park was run by its president, Franco Bonanini, a powerful man ‘ nicknamed “The Pharaoh” for his grandiose visions. In a personal visit a couple years ago, he conned me into thinking he really was a visionary committed to the region and its precious park.
But Bonanini created a medieval-style system of favorites and enemies, with the help of Riomaggiore’s mayor, and others. Starting and stopping construction projects, funneling money here and there, and extorting people to preserve their power, this cabal derailed the park vision. In 2011 they were removed from power, but the damage had been done. The good ideas of the park (info offices, baggage deposits, mountain-bike opportunities, little museums, elevators for the infirm, and even maintenance of the trails) have been scuttled.
Today, Bonanini is out of power, and the park’s run by a man from the central government whose vision for a fix, it seems, is to run the park as a business. But a park is a park, not a business. Ironically ‘ and sadly, for the residents ‘ using the park to wring money out of visitors while giving little back is not good for the livelihoods of the region’s hard-working residents. So, for 2012, no one knows exactly how the park will or will not be functioning. Thankfully, the villages and dramatic land between them are bigger than any corrupt modern-day pharaoh. For the latest on the park, see www.parconazionale5terre.it.
What does all this mean to the visitor? Not much. The Cinque Terre is still my favorite stretch of Mediterranean coastline. The people are endearing. The food, culture, and nature are uniquely enjoyable. I just thrill at the thought of people working together for a grand and noble vision that helps a community’s economy by wisely treating a park as a park, rather than making a park a business. And so far, the Cinque Terre has failed in that regard.
Sounds familiar.
I agree. If you substitute the current administration for the park and Obama for Bonanini you could be describing the present situation in the U.S.
thank you, Rick, we really appreciate your honesty. Love your show, too! It`s hard to keep politics out of promoting the beauty of nature when money and power are involved – so many people want to make a quick buck. I hope the people of the region can maintain some integrity for visitors. We`re visiting the region in September and look forward to the experience! On an aside, as a Canadian, I would be honoured to have President Obama be our Prime Minister – Jim, please keep your comments to the subject at hand.
Sounds like Bonanini took lessons from Reagan and Watt on how to run (or more correctly, ruin) the natural treasures of a nation. Another American export?
And it begins. Give it a rest. The left/right “stuff” is old. If you want I can get my kids and you can debate who has more cooties boys or girls. It`s a post about a corrupt individual in a position of power that has wasted an opportunity to turn the Cinque Terre into an enjoyable travel destination, similar to the Hamlets in the Swiss Alps.
And just when Canada was starting to make some political sense!
IO, first you say give it a rest and then go on to perfectly describe BO and the stimulus scheme. I vote boys on the cooties issue!
As much as I love Italy, their government has always seemed very disorganized. But I think that is the nature of being Italian, they probably don`t want to get too serious for very long about anything. It still is such a rich experience to travel there. When we hiked through that region, the people that ran the office and took your $5.00 seemed to be really proud of the Cinque Terra
Mamma Mia!! When will folks just accept rick steves for who he is – or don`t bother to read his stuff? For many celebrities any publicity for any reason is better than no publicity. And his travel insights do surpass those of Lady GaGa.
So glad to know it`s still your favorite, Rick … it`s next on our list of amazing Rick Steve`s tours!! :)
I`m Italian, from a beautiful little town called Mira next to Venice but I have to say that the Cinque Terre (and the region Liguria where the Cinque Terre are) are one of my favorite places in the world. Beside all the tourists and all the corruption that unfortunately happen, it`s still a fantastic, unique and genuine authentic place that I hope everybody can experience once.
we were there last May..really love it there..Vernaza was our favorite.. didn`t really notice anything but some construction on walk connecting the towns.. lovely and romantic place to visit.. can`t wait to go back! thanks Rick!
Rick…. I see you are finally realizing the consequences of what you`ve been preaching…. the government gets in the way of the productive society! Other than dropping bombs, they do NOTHING well!
Hate to say it but you, Mr. Steves, bear some responsibility for this. 10 years ago I used to hike the Cinque Terra free of charge. However, with the tremendous influx of tourists – most of whom were led there by you – they had no choice but to implement a pay-to-hike system which was supposed to help defray some of the costs of maintaining the trails. Obviously that has not been happening. Certainly some of the business people have done well financially thanks to the droves of tourists you`ve “blessed” them with but I`ve met plenty of locals over the years who view you as nothing less than evil for ruining their way of life.