Excuse Me While I Clean My Notebook…

Spain has fun with names. For instance, they call dried apricots orejones — now every time I look at one I’ll think, “Eeeww, big ears.”

One of my pet peeves is that Americans are the noisiest people in mellow and potentially romantic restaurants throughout Europe. The other day, back in Orvieto, I was jabbering away with some happy travelers I met with my guidebook when a local woman leaned far across from her table and gave us a classic “shhhhhhh.” Oops.

Spain has a class of educated professional workers whose wages can’t keep up with prices. They call them “Mileuristas” – meaning, the educated poor, earning 1,000 euros ($1,300) a month.

In Barcelona, we stumbled upon a small demonstration. The police were out in force — it seemed like there were more cops than demonstrators. I commented to my friend that this was not much of a disturbance. He agreed, saying, “Yes, but we like to demonstrate. When the Iraq war started, everyone was out. Barcelona was literally filled with people. The parade couldn’t happen. The streets were only people and nobody moved.”

Use what you design. Three times, I’ve stood up from my hotel toilet and knocked the phone hanging on the wall into the toilet. Anyone running a hotel should sleep in each room before renting it.

I had a nightmare. It was an Edvard Munch painting of 40 people walking their dogs.

For the rest of your lives, you’ll be reminded, “Don’t inflate your life vest until you’re out of the aircraft.” I don’t believe these life vests (or your floatable seat cushions) have ever been used in the history of aviation by a commercial jet “in the event of a water landing.” (Can anyone set me straight here?)

A Spanish friend of mine explained the “rule of seven nos.” When dealing with authority in Spain, you must ask sheepishly and meekly seven times – and get seven nos – before getting the go-ahead. In my TV production, this has worked many times.

Some Spaniards were lamenting the kind of leadership they felt was coming from Washington D.C. these days. We got talking about Clinton. Federico said, “Our king, Juan Carlos, is a whore addict…but nobody cares. He’s a very good king.”

Carrying around my European cell phone is like raising a child whose language I cannot speak. It makes all sorts of noises. I don’t know what to do. I just ignore them.

It occurred to me that if we all work together, we can change the pronunciation of gorgonZOla (pronounced like the lady your supermarket would) to gorGONzola. (Say it like Dracula. Say it like Juan Carlos.)

Pet peeve: a refrigerator motor disturbing an otherwise silent room. I get up in a midnight frenzy and find a way to unplug it. Last night I laid awake at 3:30 and realized I’m listening to a motor cool air.

The French are committed to the best holidays possible. To ease beach congestion, they split their country into three zones and stagger school holidays. In Spanish resorts they know which region of France is on holiday by who fills their beaches.

Traveling and seeing young families, you see how much in common parents have. I believe this is a huge step to peace and understanding between nations.

When I return home and give talks on Europe today, I think one theme will be, “Affluence channeled into good living.”

The Rolling Stones are coming to about the poorest country in Europe — Montenegro. Tens of thousands of kids are paying $50 each for tickets. The concert is sold out. I’m coming to Montenegro too…in just a few days…and nobody knows.

Comments

29 Replies to “Excuse Me While I Clean My Notebook…”

  1. Now thats blogging! Bits and pieces from behind the hard drive. The blog gets better and darker….More introspective.
    I can dig it.

    Fred in Atlanta

  2. Great blog! Especially useful as we are heading to Europe this summer. Any suggestions on traveling with a 2 year old?? We are heading for Denmark June 29th (and then Switzerland, France, and finally London – a 3 week whirlwind, but with many 3 night stays in various locales), and already I am planning our packing – do we take a stroller or a backpack carrier…?? How do you pack light with a little guy?

    I have not checked out your Denmark guidebook (my parents are Danish, so I figured I already had a handle on that country – I do have several of your other guidebooks, though), but if you haven’t already, you should check out the Danish American fourth of July celebrations in the Rebild fields just outside of Aalborg. You can’t beat the food and commaradarie of the typical Danish multicourse meal in the tent at the beginning of the festivities. It certainly adds a different flavor to the American holiday to be celebrating it in Denmark!

    Happy travels!

  3. Feels like we are along for the trip. We are heaed back to Nederlands and first time in Italy trip this fall. As always we will take you in book form as one of our guides. Enjoy.

  4. Rick! Finally read Europe 101 and it is now required reading for my kids. We were all avid traveler’s (including my parents, aunt & uncle, cousins, sisters, etc.), even long before we knew about you and your fabulous guide books. I’ve been looking for an avenue to tell you this story and you are going to love it: My husband is a pilot and 27 years ago when we married he told me “I DON’T go to baggage claim, and if you want to ride with me to the hotel then don’t check any luggage.” I have been a “carry-on only” girl ever since, no matter how long the trip. (I thought I invented the idea!) So I crossed another milestone today: I trimmed down 2 weeks in Europe’s worth of “liquids and gels” into a one quart ziploc bag! Please tell the ladies it is TOTALLY possible to do! (I could have sworn it wasn’t!) We love your videos and blog!! We hope to run into you one day on one of our adventures!

  5. We have been pouring over your Turkish guidebooks. Three years ago, we gained a damat (Turkish son-in-law) and are finally getting to travel to meet the rest of his family.
    We will beat you there this year, as I see your itinerary has you getting there in mid-Oct.
    Thanks so much, we have used your travel books many times, even once when we took a small Scout troop across the pond!
    I hope comments like these help you through the more miserable days.

  6. GorGONzola, GorGONzola, GorGONzola. Hmmm…that actually seems to just roll right off the tongue. Coincidentally, I just had some today in my arugula salad.

    Thanks for sharing the notebook tidbits. Intriguing.

    Peace,
    T.

  7. Why is it that we Americans are so much louder? My son-in-law is Welsh and I have to admitt that I sometimes strain to hear him or his family when they speak, I’m forever saying “I’m sorry what?” We definitely do talk louder and they speak more softly…but why is that? Anyone, any ideas?

  8. Rick is my travel guru! From watching my first show years ago to planning my first trip to Venice this year, I find that everything he writes is relevant and helpful. I now travel to Fla. 3 times a year with one carry-on – thank you Rick! Rick’s sense of humor is just like mine so I love his observations on people and on the everyday things travelers need to know (e.g, money exchange, train travel, telling time in Europe, not pointing with one finger!). From Rick’s Venice guidebook I’ve contacted 8 hotels and was able to book 2 at under EU180 a night right near St.Mark’s Sq.(I’ll decide later on which to cancel).I also checked Tripadvisor.com and one is highly-rated by independent guests as well as by Rick (La Locandiera). And Rick,I promise I will not be loud in Italy!!!

  9. Great blog Rick, I really enjoy reading your thoughts whenever I can.
    As for the life vests on an airliner, there was the case a few years ago of an Ethiopian Airlines 767 (I think) that was hijacked and had to ditch in the water just off the Comoros. Despite being told by the flight attendants not to inflate their life jackets until exiting the aircraft, many inflated them while still seated. There were plenty of survivors of the water landing. And there would have been more, but most of the people who inflated their vests too early became trapped when the plane began to take on water and sink.

  10. Rick…your blog this Summer is terrific. My wife and I went on your 17-day Italy guided tour a year ago and had a great time. At the beginning of your 2007 blog you said you were using a Nikon D40. How does it compare to your older (smaller) digital cameras? Is it worth it lugging around a bigger, bulkier digital SLR? Are the pictures any better? We saw your speech at the LA Times Travel Show several months back. It was great to see you in person. You are as natural and friendly in person as on your travel shows and pledge weeks. Keep up the good work. Terry.

  11. Hello Rick,
    Love your blog. Love your shows. Re:cell phone – I bought a Mobal Communications world phone upon your recommendation at their website. I find the Siemens A70 small & light, but not user friendly. Do you have the same phone that “makes all sorts of noises”? Thanks for your reply.
    ~Teresa

  12. Not to excuse ill mannered people, but Americans are not necessarily noisier than others. Any group larger than two or three in a restaurant will normally talk louder than a couple sitting nearby. Excitement adds to the volume and people on vacation in any country can often be heard over other diners.

  13. Hi Rick, really enjoy reading your blogs-thanks! Am thinking about going on the Camino de Santiago ‘pilgrimage’ in Spain; do you (or anyone else out there) have anything to say about this trip? Would go on our own;no tour group.
    Gracias from Gloria in Austin, TX.

  14. Rick,
    Regarding the life vests comment/question. Yes they have been used. I don’t remember all the specifics but about 10yrs ago a large plane (767?) made a water landing (I think it also flipped over)off the coast off east Africa. It was caught on video. A horrific but survivable accident (with a little luck). Anyway there were survivors one of whom I saw interviewed. I think he was an American diplomat. He commented on how some people before the water landing inflated their life vests, just like they tell you not to. Those people mostly drowned because they were forced to the top of the plane when the water came in. For the most part those who did not inflate until after they swam out lived. I have never forgotten that interview. If I had been in that crash I would have drowned.

  15. Maybe living in America makes us loud? My husband and I are just back from a trip to Solvang (a little Danish town in California). We were eating dinner in a lovely candelit restaurant, very romantic. Two elderly women sat near us and spoke very loudly in Danish (to each other) and English (to the waiter)—ruining the mood for everyone present. Maybe Americans (whether natives or transplants) display too much “ASB” for their own good (translation ASB = Attention Seeking Behavior). We are leaving for Europe in 2 weeks (including Denmark) and plan NOT to leave the same impression on the Danish that two of their countrywomen made on us.

  16. I agree with you, Robin. While in Italy and Germany five years ago, we were amazed at how unself-obsessed people were. Most Europeans we encountered were more quiet than the typical American.

    I abhor crowds, but in Germany, we had the experience of being on the crowded streets during sidewalk sales. We were nearly packed in like sardines, but I wasn’t the least bit stressed! People “knew how to act.” Amazingly, they respected others’ space, darting in and out and staying out of the way. No one stood stock still in doorways and other pedestrian “thoroughfares” and occupied prime space where others wanted to get through! (This is a huge pet peeve of mine in U.S. crowds.)While waiting in line for a tram ride on the isle of Elba,everyone in line–from individuals and couples to full families with kids–were reasonably quiet, orderly and respectful of others’ space. What a change from the “ASB” (attention-seeking behavior) of the typical self-absorbed American!

  17. People standing chatting blocking doorways or narrow pavements/sidewalks, or walking six abreast ….welcome to Spain! Loudness is also a Spanish thing (not just an American one): they talk to each other at a volume that in most Europeans is a shout. At our wedding (in England), my husband commented to his father on the noise level in the room with 50 guest chatting. You couldn’t hear what people were saying and that was amazing to a Spaniard.
    An anecdote about Italians in groups: a year or so ago we were flying out of Cologne airport. A group of Italians started to form a queue at a check-in desk which was closed (no member of staff visible either) rather than joining a queue at another desk. We had the impression from the way they did it that in Italy this would have had an effect and someone would have come to staff the desk. Needless to say in Germany it didn’t work (nor would it have worked in Spain or UK either).

  18. In response to Gloria:

    I’m planning to do the Camino starting next month, all by myself. In July I fly into Paris, take a train to Bordeaux, and begin from there (at least I hope so).

    I just turned 40, so I figure now’s the time to do it. I’ve read a number of books about the trek – do a search on Amazon and pick out a few, as I did. Also, check the Web for Camino-related sites, especially ones w/backpacking tips.

    Anyway, hope you can make it. If so, Buen Camino!

  19. ASB — attention seeking behavior. I love it! I will add to my other travelisms I recently heard on a GAS (Germany, Austria and Switzerland) tour.
    PFF – Pee for Free
    FTP – Free to Pee
    ABC – Another Bloody Castle, Cathedral or Church (I picked this one up from a Brit on a Rhine cruise.

    Americans are not the only noisy ones. I encountered groups in Munich, Salzaburg, and Vienna who were louder than our American-Canadian tour group!

  20. although someone else’s comment contradicts mine, I’ll post it anyway! My brother worked for a company that makes the inflatable ramps and such that you see used in airline evacuations. He told me (and I’ve read it elsewhere since) that water landings are like hitting concrete. It’s highly unlikely that anyone would survive a water crash as the plane would break up but a) never say never; and b) it makes the passengers that less nervous about crashing in water, because most of us think a water landing in a plane would be like a cannonball dive—it might sting but we mistakenly assume water is softer than land. What we don’t consider is that we’re not the ones landing in the water; we’re bouncing off the hard sides of a plane. I think the only likely way to survive a water landing and utilize an inflatable vest is if you managed to bail out of the plane prior to it hitting the water. Since we’d all be in ‘crash position,’ who would open the door?

  21. Your comment about life vests and seat cushions “in the event of a water landing” made me laugh. I said the same thing to my wife on our last trip–I’m sure they’ve never been used. Can you imagine hundreds of people patiently pulling on tabs, strapping on life jackets and blowing into tubes? I think not.

  22. One of my pet peeves is that Americans are the noisiest people in mellow and potentially romantic restaurants throughout Europe. I just got done study abroad in Bilbao, Spain… definately suggest you hit up the Basque Country (Pias Vasco) sometime… wonderful people and radical teenagers with colorful mullets and dreads! Anyways, I noticed some of the students I was with from America were soooo noisy.. even just walking down the street.. i found myself walking way ahead of them not to be considered one of those ‘noisy americans.’

  23. On my first night at the Hotel Oceania in Rome in March of 1999 I too was kept awake by that same noisy refrigerator motor, cycling on and off!

  24. One more about life vests. Don’t want to speculate on whether they really work, but our flight attendant did make the explanation a bit more interesting by beginning with “In the event our flight turns into a cruise….”

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