What’s New in France in 2013

As we’re about the only travel guidebook publisher that endeavors to visit every place in person every year when we update our annual editions, we catch lots of important little changes from year to year. We collect these in a series of articles for our travelers. This week, we’re sharing all the latest in Italy, France, Britain, and Germany. I hope these country-specific travel news flashes are of help in turning your travel dreams into smooth, efficient and affordable reality. Next up: France.

Travelers to France find a rich and constantly changing palette of cultural and historic sights. Here’s a review of what’s new or different in la belle France for 2013:

Increasingly, attractions in Paris and beyond are adding online ticketing, which lets visitors print a receipt that serves as an entry pass. Smart sightseers can now book ahead and avoid lines at destinations such as the Eiffel Tower, the Musée d’Orsay, and Monet’s gardens at Giverny, as well as for activities such as Seine river cruises and church concerts.

As always, there’s news at the Louvre. Videoguides on portable consoles (€5 rental) provide commentary on about 700 masterpieces. The new Islamic art section–with its eye-catching glass roof–is installed in the Cour de Visconti courtyard of the Denon wing.

Other Paris museum openings and closings include the recently refurbished Impressionist galleries of the Musée d’Orsay. After a bit of a shakeout, paintings have settled into permanent locations, offering a fresh view of this rich trove of masterworks. The long-closed Picasso Museum should finally reopen in summer 2013. Meanwhile, the Rodin Museum is undergoing a major renovation until 2014. While statues will be moved around and some rooms will close altogether, the museum’s lovely gardens will remain open.

There are several intriguing new tour options in Paris. Classic Walks offers new Easy Pass tours that allow you to skip the lines at major sights such as the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower (www.easypasstours.com). TripUp’s pedicab tours, helmed by hard-pedaling drivers, are a charming way to experience Paris at a snail’s pace (www.tripup.fr). If rumbling around Paris in a funky old Citroën 2CV convertible à la Inspector Clouseau sounds like your kind of fun, check out Paris Authentic (www.parisauthentic.com) or 4 Roues Sous 1 Parapluie (www.4roues-sous-1parapluie.com).

The city’s Velib bike program is now more accessible to visitors, who can buy a one- or seven-day subscription online (http://en.velib.paris.fr). This is a fun way to tootle between sights–the first 30 minutes of any trip are included with your subscription; after that there’s a small fee for each additional 30 minutes.

Paris’s bike-sharing program has more than 20,000 bikes stationed around the city. (photo credit: Dominic Bonuccelli)

Along the Seine, the French are following a kitschy and annoying “tradition” that’s popping up in other parts of Europe: latching padlocks on the handrails of bridges. Locals and tourists alike honor loved ones by writing a brief message on a padlock and attaching it to a railing. The locks (called un cadenas, €5) are sold at bookseller’s stalls along the river.

At Versailles–the number one side-trip from Paris, just a half-hour away–some rooms of the Queen’s Wing of the main palace may be closed for renovation in 2013. A new shuttle bus is whisking visitors from the Versailles train station to the Trianon Palaces and the Domaine de Marie-Antoinette, on the far side of the palace’s vast grounds (www.phebus.tm.fr).

At Mont St-Michel, the causeway that’s long brought tourists to the dramatic island abbey was closed to car traffic in 2012 (and will eventually be replaced by a new bridge). Instead of parking along the causeway, drivers now leave their cars on the mainland and either walk, ride a free shuttle, or hop a horse-drawn wagon to the island.

Down south, in Provence, the Ancient History Museum in Arles is showing off a recently discovered Roman barge and much of its cargo (exhibit opening in late 2013). This almost 100-foot-long vessel and more than 3,000 ceramic jugs and artifacts were pulled from the Rhône River in 2010. Along the Riviera, the big news in Nice is the reopening of its 100-year-old onion-domed Russian Cathedral, claimed by many to be the finest Orthodox church outside Russia.

The historic Russian Cathedral in Nice, built during the reign of Tsar Nicolas II, is celebrating its 100th anniversary. (photo credit: Michaelanne Jerome)

Through 2014, you won’t be able to cross the Alps from France to Italy by cable car, as the lift from Helbronner Point (near Mont Blanc) down to the Italian valley station of La Palud is closing for renovation. (You can still side-trip to Italy by bus from Chamonix to Aosta.) Gondolas will continue operating on the Mont Blanc lift up from Chamonix to the Aiguille du Midi and over to Helbronner–but only in summer and, even then, only in good weather.

The Alsace’s top art sight, Colmar’s famed Unterlinden Museum, is scheduled for renovation sometime in 2013. When that happens, the jewel of the museum, Grunewald’s gripping Isenheim Altarpiece, will likely move to the nearby Dominican Church, where it should remain on display while the museum is under construction.

With all this renovating and reorganizing, there’s one thing that won’t change in France: The owners of family-run hotels will still run from bakeries through the streets at the crack of dawn, lovingly bringing fresh-baked croissants back to their breakfast rooms so their guests can get a proper start to their sightseeing days.

Comments

5 Replies to “What’s New in France in 2013”

  1. Interesting blog on Paris. I always enjoy Paris, but unfortunately, I have only been there a couple of times, in 2005, 2009. What I do remember is the fun of looking at the major sites like Notre Dame, Eiffel Tower, Isle d’ Cite, Arch De Triumph, and the Jewish Deportation Memorial behind the Cathedral of Notre Dame, Montmarte and Sacre Coeur.
    Also, had to go to Rue Clare and have a coffee and pastry at Cafe du Marche.
    However, I still will need to see France to see the other places mentioned above. Maybe I will next year. Thanks for the new tips and insight to the France of 2013. Happy Travels as you say.

  2. The fresh pastries in the morning are so wonderful. We stayed at Hotel Muguet in December and they would bring in a fresh bag of pastries from the bakery down the street every morning.

  3. rick…..very comprehensive;;;as usual! a few “bon mots” your readers might appreciate

    1. Notre Dame is beng extensively renovated….so congestion in high season could be more frsutrating than usual.

    2. There is also a Picasso musem in Antibes…(for riviera rovers)

    3. Giverny. unless LOVE crowds,waiting in line, minimal photo ops…DON’T GO THERE
    between June through August. Like most of Europe ( France in particular) the “golden months” are May and September.

    hope this helps!

  4. Am in Arles now for the week staying at the delightful Hotel & Spa le Calendal. They certainly are friendly and do everything with a smile which is their motto. The Avignon Centre-Ville Rail Station no longer has suitcase storage available. That may be true elsewhere also. The Fondation Van Gogh building is not finished let alone open. Should be beautiful when done. Lots of construction and remodeling occurring right now in Arles. No problem walking around town though.

  5. Always love your advice. Rue Cler and Carcassonne are two of the best. Regarding the cadenas on Paris bridges, you don’t actually encourage it in your blog here, though you do tell tourists where they can buy the locks. Bookinistes sell them; bateaux mouches tours mention them; they’re a tourist attraction, no doubt. But the government has mixed emotions about this “romantic” fad. It costs money to maintain bridge safety under the weight of all the padlocks. I thought I read somewhere that the city has had to dredge the river (though it’s hard to imagine keys in the riverbed would present a problem). Many Parisians view this fad as defacing their city and their monuments. Plus, people get carried away and put padlocks other places. On my last stroll across lovely Pont Alexandre III, I almost cried to see padlocks and graffiti scratches in the graceful Nymphs of the Seine sculptures. Please, if you can discourage tourists from participating, do so. It’s nice if you explain so that when they see all the locks, they understand, but in my opinion this tradition detracts from the beauty of Paris.

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