From 9/11/01 to 9/11/11

As a gesture of post-9/11 solidarity, we were proudly shown these stars and stripes while filming at Burgundy’s Château de Rochepot — a keepsake from France’s liberation in 1944

Dear Traveler,

As our nation remembers the horrible events of 9/11 on its 10th anniversary, along with commemorating the victims and how so many people suffered on that tragic day, many of us are sorting through our thoughts with the perspective that comes with a little time. Growing from personal tragedy by thoughtful reflection can be a way to honor those who died or suffered.

I was in Italy’s Cinque Terre on 9/11, filming a TV show. I figure that the first plane hit the North Tower just when we were filming the romantic Via dell’Amore, the “Pathway of Love,” which is a lovers’ meeting point between the towns of Riomaggiore and Manarola. I’ve walked it on five or six trips since, and for me, the Via dell’Amore is no longer the “Pathway of Love”… it’s the “Pathway of 9/11.”

Hiking with our TV gear into the next village, we found a tiny bar packed with people as if it were a makeshift theater. Everyone was staring, jaws dropped, at the TV. I saw the smoldering tower and thought it was some kind of a disaster movie. Then people told me the news. My crew and I gathered outside and decided the only thing we could do was to keep on working.

We had a Rick Steves tour group in Vernazza at the time. That evening, all the Americans were huddling together, wondering what would happen next. There was a line at the town’s one public phone booth. There were two distinct camps of travelers: those who thought, “It’s tragic, but there’s nothing we can do, so keep on traveling”; and those who, psychologically, couldn’t continue with their vacation — but also couldn’t get back home.

My enduring memory was of solidarity — Americans caring for each other and locals caring for Americans. All the people of the Cinque Terre were Americans with us; they did what they could to help us out during that disturbing time, when no one knew what was coming next. My Italian friend reminded me of how, a few years earlier, he had taken me to his village war memorial and told me that America had never really experienced a war like Italy had. Shaking his head sadly, he said, “Now, in a way, you have.” (In my September Travel News, read what I wrote back then, along with a poignant collection of emails travelers sent us in the days after 9/11.)

I played out many scenarios in my mind about what would follow. Might this horrible event be a bridge that connected us with a world that already well-understood suffering and national grief on the scale of 9/11? Might it give us empathy? Or would we seek revenge? Would we respond to this despicable act as a crime or as an act of war? And, if an act of war, whom would we fight?

Looking back over the last decade, it seems that by reacting with such fervor to a tragedy Bin Laden had engineered precisely to get that reaction, we as a society richly rewarded his actions. Bin Laden was unable to radicalize Islam himself, but he knew the USA could do it for him. And, from my perspective, we did. In the interest of “national security,” we would compromise the values so fundamental to what makes us Americans. Instead of aspiring to be the gentle giant who responded to overseas crises swiftly and with compassion, or who patiently stood up to the oppressive communist ideology through a Cold War that spanned generations, we became a reactionary, vengeful country that threw out the rulebook — unilaterally going to war, employing torture techniques, and holding suspected terrorists without trial for years on end. And with each step away from our bedrock morals, we unwittingly demonstrated to the Arab world that America was to be feared and hated. Looking back, I don’t think Bin Laden — whose deputy has said, “More than half of this battle is taking place in the battlefield of the media” — could have hoped for a better result. Could it be that the USA is a different place today not because of 9/11, but because of our extreme reaction to 9/11?

In the travel industry, people stopped buying tours for a while. Many on my staff wondered if we’d be able to survive. For the first time in my career, simply making our payroll was a challenge. I gathered my co-workers and told them, “We’ll be giddy flagships of confidence — for the good of our business and even more important, for the good of our nation.” I knew that in order for Americans to understand things from a broader perspective — and there would be lots to try to understand in the coming years — travel was now more important than ever. While some considered those of us who tried to “take 9/11 in stride” unpatriotic, I had a strong sense that for our very national security it was more important than ever that the USA find ways to be a part of the family of nations. We made a huge effort to keep people traveling.

In the months after 9/11, I remember giving my travel talks to large groups. There was some question whether it was even appropriate to encourage travel and vacationing while our nation was in mourning. But the organizations who invited me to talk soldiered on. The Society of American Travel Writers asked me to be their keynote speaker in Las Vegas, and the AARP hired me to come to Houston to give a big talk at their convention. In my first big speaking gigs after 9/11, talking about packing light and catching the train seemed silly considering the trauma our nation was going through. My message morphed into a political one, encouraging Americans to travel because we need to better understand our world with firsthand, people-to-people experiences. It was a scary experience from a speaking point of view. But, in a nation that seemed determined — in lockstep — to shrink back from the world, I felt driven to advocate the opposite response, to embrace the world. By standing in front of a group and saying, “Get a grip, America,” it seemed people needed permission to move on. People found it cathartic. The SATW and AARP talks were perhaps the most exhilarating of my career. This was the year I came to see the role of a travel writer as being like the medieval jester — to go out, learn what’s happening outside the castle, come home, and tell the king the truth.

In the long run, the impact of 9/11 on our business has been both expected and surprising. Predictably, our tour sales took a big dip in 2002, and we no longer sell Swiss Army knives (because you can’t carry them onto an airplane). Just as predictably, after a couple of years of post-9/11 jitters, demand for travel surged once again. But 9/11 also inspired me to speak out more boldly about the politics of travel. I now routinely give talks about the value of travel as a force for peace all over the country. And that talk spawned a new book that was named the travel book of the year in 2010 by the SATW — Travel as a Political Act.

I noticed that the US State Department has issued a travel advisory for the 10th anniversary of 9/11. In our post-9/11 world, considering the importance of building bridges rather than walls, I’d like to issue an advisory against not traveling. In fact, on 9/11/11, I’ll be in Europe myself…traveling on and immersing myself in our beautiful world, just as I have been for the last decade.

Happy Travels,

Rick Steves

Comments

43 Replies to “From 9/11/01 to 9/11/11”

  1. 9/11/01 was a wake-up call for US politicians and citizens. We dismissed the 1993 World Trade Center bombing as an aberration and the USS Cole attack plus attacks on our embassies as too far away to affect most of us directly. But these days even a warning of a terrorist act on our soil is almost as effective in frightening people as an actual attack. Several things which concern me include the use of threats (external and internal) to institutionalize restraints upon things like our freedom of speech and freedom to worship; the demonization of 1.6 Billion Muslims when only a relative few are disciples of extremist Salafist and Wahabbist beliefs; the willingness of un-informed Americans to kowtow to political demagogues who couldn’t get elected dogcatcher without the fear factor; the refusal of many ignorant, selfish Americans to embrace substitutes for inefficient vehicles (so we can disentangle ourselves from fossil fuel rich dictatorships which have cost us trillions in wars and thousands in deaths); and the bought-and-paid-for-by-oil-company-hacks who dismiss the 98 percent of scientists who warn of people’s contribution to global warming by burning fossil fuels. The real solution to our problems is full disclosure plus the education of the American people. If we can ever find anybody willing to tell the whole truth, not just the spin that advances his or her own favorite cause.

  2. I’ll be traveling in Europe too. Concerning the various remembrances and other events highlighting 9/11, are they being overdone? I don’t recall my parents generation making a big deal about December 7 through the ’40’s and ’50’s. What has changed?

  3. Couldn’t agree with you more Rick. At the moment I’m in the Greek islands (an ideal place to travel in September) and having the time of my life. Fear mongering sells media, helps radical politicians, and redirects massive amounts of money from worthy causes to more dubious ones.

  4. Just wondering when the millions of followers of Islam are stand up and hold these terrorists accountable instead of harboring them. The media has had no problem holding the U.S. accountable for every tiny mistake. President Obama has started making changes to our policies, why is that never acknowledged? But Bin Laden is hiding out in the back yard of the heart of Pakistan’s military and it gets blown over after a week. Why haven’t the Pakistani’s marched on there capital and demanded that these terrorists be brought to justice? The have no problem demanding that former President Bush be tried for war crimes.

  5. It’s just not people buying inefficient vehicles. Thanks to Eisenhowers Highway act of 1956 and the availability of FHA loans after WWII lead to the creation of the suburb, the plague of urban sprawl. The need for large homes on large lots of land away from the city put farms(goodbye fresh produce) out of business and increased the need for vehicles. Leading to obesity and pollution. It was also the destruction of the community. Communities are now segregated by class and average income. Mixing of the classes is obsolete in suburbs. Mixed use building and a better public transit system would solve many of these problems. Why do so many nations have a high speed train system but we don’t??? Samsoa in Denmark is a self sustaining community that doesn’t rely on public utilities. Things can be done but no one is stepping up to do it. Want a public works act start with public transportation.

  6. Rick, i especially like your comments about building bridges instead of walls! How important that is at this time. Thanks Chris

  7. Rick- I liked you a lot more when you were my reliable, informed, entertaining, “go to” travel guy. I like you a lot less now that you have decided to use your position as a bully pulpit. To encourage travel as a way of seeing ourselves in the world and our relationship to other people and cultures is fine, but to listen to your opinion on political issues is not what I come to you for. There are more than enough talking heads in the media doing that – stick to telling me about travel and I’ll be much happier. Oh and by the way, I have enough brains to make up my own opinion about what has and is happening in the world – I’m tired of everyone who feels a need to spread their message using whatever means they can to do it.

  8. Steves takes a calculated risk when he promotes a position. But nothing has ever improved until people speak out. In the US it’s largely our business people who have a platform – and not all are villains. I’ll take an intelligent bully pulpit over a demagogue anytime.

  9. I’m in NYC this year and it’s put a different perspective 9/11 for me. It’s always been tragic and emotional, but now it’s personal. Last night at one point I started hearing sirens. I hear sirens all the time in NYC, but this seemed excessive. I started to get very nervous and was thinking of how I could figure out what was going on. Then they stopped. So, I went on with my TV watching. About a half hour later I tuned to NY1 and there I found out that I had been right to be worried. A package had been seen on the Queensboro Bridge. It had wires on it and they closed the bridge. It turned out not to be a bomb. But, it’s different here than in Wisconsin. I heard family member asking how I was doing and commenting, “You’re not getting on any buses or trains are you?” Well, actually, I am traveling tomorrow. I’m flying out of JFK tomorrow night on a regional jet. Which reassured my relative. So, I’m definitely still traveling, but it is a different world and a bit of reflection is good for everyone.

  10. Rick,
    Everything you say is about widening horizons–learning about people and places that you didn’t know about before and making friends across oceans, languages, and cultures. I think your comments about 9/11 and about the symphony you are supporting fit your philosophy about travel pretty well. What a gift to have your website and TV shows when I travel or dream about travel.

  11. Hi Rick-
    Thanks for the inspiring comments on the anniversary of 9/11. I am glad to see you writing and commenting on the world as you see and experience it, and not letting others determine what you will say and express on your own website. As you point out so well, good travel has never been an insular endeavour and hopefully never will be. It seems to me, that is what you and your company are all about. All the best!
    Barbara L.

  12. I would agree our government over reacted to 9/11 and has enacted laws that I am not comfortable with, but over all I think Bin Laden won the battle and lost the war. From Syria to Tunsia Muslims are trying to oust their dicators and take back their countries.

    I have no problem with you expressing your opinion, but I think you need to lighten up and be less preachy. I’m not looking for a sermon on the benefits of traveling.

    I wasn’t financially able to travel to Europe until I was 47 and I found it to be a very enlightening experience in many, many ways.

  13. Rick, I agree in the sense that one should keep on traveling, however, I strongly disagree with your comments that you are the jester coming back to the castle to spread the “truth” to the king. You are only spreading your opinion, nothing else. You have a right to spread your interpretation but you do not always speak the truth because sometimes your views on politics, economics and culture are quite simply, wrong.

  14. I’d like to add that on 911 and the immediate days afterward, I was not in Italy or Greece but happened to be in my hometown of Dearborn, Michigan, which just happens to be the home of the largest Muslim population in the United States. More Lebanese living there then in Beirut. People were DANCING IN THE STREETS celebrating 911. While I will not condemn the whole Muslim faith or its adherents, the fact remains that to this day the majority of the Muslim community has remained SILENT in expressing its outrage. To think that many did not silently support what happened is ludicrous. Maybe Rick and some others need to travel more domestically to not only fully understand Americans, but to enlighten themselves, and expand their own horizons a bit before spouting their messages of “truth”.

  15. “America had never really experienced a war like Italy had.” There’s a difference. Italy helped start WWII. America didn’t start the war with the terrorists. By the way, America took some tough measures in response to Pearl Harbor. “Bin Laden had engineered precisely to get that reaction, we as a society richly rewarded his actions.” Bin Laden wanted us to react by marginalizing and killing him? His reward was a bullet in the head. “Instead of aspiring to be the gentle giant who responded to overseas crises swiftly and with compassion …” We gave peace a chance. We got 9/11. “… or who patiently stood up to the oppressive communist ideology through a Cold War that spanned generations …” What do you mean we, Kemo Sabe? You opposed the policies that won the Cold War. You said the Soviet Union “would have [collapsed] anyway, given time.”

    America was “unilaterally going to war …” Dozens of countries joined us, including many from Europe. We were “… employing torture techniques …” The Obama Administration desperately wanted to prosecute Bush Administration officials for torture. Obama’s Attorney General decided that he didn’t have a case. “…holding suspected terrorists without trial for years on end …” Prisoners of war can be held without trial indefinitely. Germans held Americans without trial. When will Gitmo be closed?

    In 2006 you said you were okay if we lost “hundreds or thousands” a year to terrorists (http://blog.seattletimes.nwsource.com/davidpostman/2006/09/the_rick_steves_guide_to_terrorism_in_the_world.html). Thank God, we didn’t buy the Rick Steves guide to terrorism.

  16. I have never spoken with anyone who was totally wrong. Their point of view might have been different than my own or even with that of most others. Their information may have been incomplete or biased. But they were never absolutely wrong. The people here and elsewhere who should worry us most are rigid zealots who refuse to even listen to another opinion, who refuse to even acknowledge anybody else’s perspective and who become violent when others don’t totally agree with them. Many suffer from a lack of curiosity or fear they might actually be wrong so they scream and rant because they can’t persuade.

  17. Rick, like you I was in Europe, Madrid specifically, on 9/11/01 and like you I love traveling in Europe, but I don’t blame the US for the terrorist attacks as did the editorials in every late-edition paper, including the London ones, on 9/11/01. I blame the hatred in the sick minds of terrorists who don’t resolve their political, religious, and social differences peacefully.

    I emerged from my hotel room that evening to find the streets of central Madrid quiet and the restaurants packed with patrons tranfixed to televisions while shaking their heads disapprovingly at the shame of the Islamic terrorists who had not just hijacked airliners, but also hijacked their once-great religion.

    I’m very proud to be an American and I’ve had plenty of Euros and Brits buy me beers becauce of the Americans who liberated their continent from tyranny. I’m very grateful for the sacrifices of our troops and I thank them at every opportunity. I will never apologize for their actions to protect our freedoms – like the freedom to speak and assemble without reprisal, and the freedom to conduct businesses such as yours.

    After 9/11, there was a demonstration in Madrid of 100,000 people supporting not so much the United States, but their desire for a peaceful, tolerant world. If terrorists would follow the Spainards lead and resolve their differences peacefully, there would be no reasons to blame the US for the actions of extremists with sick, hateful, minds.

  18. @b-Well stated. Travel has helped me see that others in the world have similar issues in their daily life as do I. How they my solve those issues may be different then how I solve mine but they get solved. Meaning to me there isn’t only one answer to a problem. Being open minded is the answer to me.

  19. You know what, everyone has the right to express their views, period. But for people to tell Rick–someone who’s travelled more extensively than most of us–not to impart what he’s seen in his world experience..well that’s just silly. Oh, by the by, Muslims were killed on 11 September also, as victims and as brave rescuers. And why are Christians keeping quiet and not being more vigilant in helping hunt Christian extremists after the tragedy in Norway? Perhaps because that maniac isn’t really a Christian, no matter what he says? The same way us Christians can’t fathom being in the same circles with terrorists, same goes in the Muslim community. To put it plainly, Al-Queda and their ilk might use Islam, but are not real Muslims.

  20. I think Mr. Steves was right to post his thoughts on the tenth anniversary of September 11th. Though I may not agree with everything he’s written, I believe it was absolutely necessary for him to post how this day affected him. It is times like these that we need to be able to speak our views and opinions.

  21. I completely agree what happened in Norway is atrocious. But he was a lone gunman with extremist christian ideals. Which I think were absolutely hideous. As a Christian I condemn him and anyone else who believes what he does. But those that committed the events of 9/11, USS Cole, Bombing of the Barracks were connected to an extremist GROUP. The person, and I use that term loosely, that killed all those innocent people in Norway was caught and is now going to be punished. Even though I think his punished will be far to lenient for his crimes, I am not Norwegian and would respect their legal system.

  22. Appreciate your comments, IO. I agree that everybody has a right to an opinion based on differing perspectives and experiences, and we must be vigilant in protecting those rights, especially from those who, in the name of diversity and open mindedness, are so quick to take those rights away from others that they disagree. We can and do set the bar higher, and have staked the higher ground by respecting others that we disagree with without resorting to name-callling. Intolerance indeed is our biggest threat. Prayers to all victims of 911 and their families.

  23. Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.
    – Mark Twain, Innocents Abroad

  24. Your country flag is the biggest example to say that: ” America is never fall down before terrorist”. The flag found after WTC falling, I can’t comment more but It’s really become a big scene for you and terrorist.

  25. Here in Haarlem Holland we attended services at the Grote Kerk. The Shalom message delivered on America’s 9.11 Anniversary was a wonderful tribute to everyone’s desire for peace in a world perfected together. A privilege to be here among the people voted the most contented in all of Europe. We find it to be so.

  26. >> Would we respond to this despicable act as a crime or as an act of war?

    Rick, Are you kidding me? How else was the U.S. supposed to react? By apologizing to the radicals for making them hate us?

    >> Bin Laden was unable to radicalize Islam himself, but he knew the USA could do it for him

    That is truly a statement of gargantuan political ignorance. I understand there are many differing opinions about war and terrorism, but I’m sick and tired of apologist Americans saying that if only we were “nicer to” and more “understanding of” the radical muslims, 9/11 wouldn’t have happened. This reasoning only applies to otherwise civilized cultures and societies. It doesn’t apply to the sub-human mindset of these terrorists or those who side with them.

    You are the best travel writer out there – read all your books and went on one of your tours, watch the TV show. Stick to what you do best Rick, because every time you open your mouth about politics you really come off ignorant and downright insulting.

  27. Get a grip, people. There’s a disclaimer on this blog stating:

    If you think it’s inappropriate for a travel writer to stir up discussion on his blog with political observations and insights gained from traveling abroad, you may not want to read any further. — Rick

    If an entry has a title you think will upset you, then don’t read it!

  28. The one thing that travel has done for me over the last decade is to realize that everything you hear or see from the media is over blown. Every year that we have traveled there has been “something” some where. Vocano’s, terror threats, Flu, Planes grounded. We can almost count on some big news story coming up a few weeks or days before we go some where. And everytime we just go and everything is always fine.

  29. Ok, I’ve never complained about the mediator on this blog. I understand it is a difficult job. I’ve even had some of my posts removed and still I’ve supported them. But the censorship is getting a little one sided. There is currently a post on this blog which poses the same question I asked and it hasn’t been removed. If we are offended by people asking difficult questions. Then why hasn’t Mr. Steves posts been edited as not to offend those who have expressed their offense to them.

    1. MODERATOR: Comments may be deleted when in violation of community guidelines. Per those guidelines, please limit your number of posts to two per blog entry and to avoid direct responses to others’ comments. Please review our guidelines here.

  30. IO, that shouldn’t be happening. My comments get taken down too from time to time, however reasonable I may think they were. Sadly, I feel your pain….

  31. Reading the comments about RS’s blog reveals a world of people made up of differing opinions. The fact that so many (opinions) come from places other than the US is insightful in its own right. The fact that so many can express opinions without fear of retribution and censorship says a lot about freedom of speech. RS has his. We have ours. Better heated dialogue on a website than a bomb at a school.

  32. I agree Alfran and W . I like you comments Alfran I never thought they were out of line just differed from mine. But what I like most is they made me think and re-evaluate some of my own thoughts, those post are insightful and intelligent. I think we need both sides of an argument to keep of balanced. W 1000%(illogical I know) correct, better dialogue than a bomb, great quote. I may have to steal it. Keep up the great posts everyone.

  33. It is funny how taken someones perceived rights away makes even the most contenscious start to get along.

  34. IO, thank you for those gracious remarks. Frankly, you provoke thought with your viewpoints as well. I always get something from them. Agreeing to be disagreeable can be a very constructive thing.

  35. Folks,
    I don’t necessarily agree with Rick’s political views however I always like to hear what he has to say. If you don’t like hearing what he has to say remember at the top of the blog he warns if you think it inappropriate for a travel writer to express his views then do not read further.

  36. @Moderator: It was my first two responses that were deleted. My first post followed the guidelines. Second one I did reference someones response, so I understand that one. This is my last post in this section. That being said there are some great conversations in these blogs, in which we can all learn and grow from. I would hate to see more erased due to censorship and “guidelines” and ruin any chance of making progress. Like someone I respect (A!$&@n) said, “Agreeing to be disagreeable can be a very constructive thing.” If not here on a site with fairly liberal views, which embraces the practice of free speech, then where? and when? Best Wishes

  37. Can somebody say Paul Krugman? Just like his writing in the NYT about 9/11 and banning all comments, I hope this site will not travel further down the road of censorship that it is already on. Why the fear of opposing opinions? If one is firm in their beliefs, they shouldn’t feel intimidated by other views being posted.

  38. The article is worth while reading,I like it very much and which you shared the info in this post is very useful. Thanks for sharing a wonderful post.

  39. I think the last decade has improved things immensely. OBL is dead, Al-Qaida’s bloodthirstiness in Iraq cost it support on the Arab Street, and militant Islam is almost everywhere reviled and considered illegitimate. Saddam Hussein–with the instability he engendered–is gone and Iraq is a more civil society today. The Taliban, if not broken, are at least out of power in Afghanistan. Iran continues to be problematic, but at least the U.S. has a presence in the region to counter it. The Arab Spring may be the continuation of the hoped-for Big Bang, but it’s too soon to tell. But at least the uprisings in Libya, Tunisia, Egypt, and Syria hold out the promise of a third way between dictatorship and theocracy. Stay tuned…

  40. Rick, I love your show and respect you. 9-11 was an inside job. The official story is full of whole and inconsistencies. I am a former Police Officer who left the US to live in Germany for many reasons. The US has attacked itself before in history and one must only look to events like the USS Maine and the Gulf of Tonkin to have a full understanding of what the lies our government tells us can do. WTC building number 7 fell on 9-11 after never being touched by a plane. Some great videos on Youtube are Loose Change and Zero. I hope you can check these out Rick.

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