I’ve been traveling for nearly a week in southwest England and have not seen an American. There are plenty of tourists — Europeans and Brits — but not a Yank in sight. This is Cornwall, where the last native speaker of the Cornish language probably died in the late 1700s. But there still is local pride. The welcome sign on the motorway at the county border is in that old Celtic language people used to speak around here, as well as English. And, locals claim, had the Scots said yes to their recent referendum for independence, there would have been rumbling for greater autonomy here in this proud corner of Britain. Here are six photos that, for me, capture highlights of Cornwall.
The cute little fishing port of Mousehole is actually named for the tiny, mouse hole-like entry into its tough little harbor. The village was crushed by Spanish cannon balls in 1595 and rebuilt in the 17th century. There’s an 8-meter tide here and the boats lie beached in the harbor at each low tide.
The arrival of the train made this distant part of England accessible to Victorian holiday-goers in the 19th century. I love noting the little niceties built for the Victorian aristocrats — like this rock pool. Each day the tide strands a world of fun little creatures for visitors to discover.
The dramatically situated Minack Theater is the labor of love of Rowena Cade (1893-1983), who dedicated her life to carving out this amazing place. Every night during theater season about 700 people enjoy live drama with a vast sea-view backdrop.
I enjoyed the expert guiding of Tim Uff during a busy day of touring the Penwith Peninsula. For lunch, Tim grabbed us a Cornish pasty and bottles of local elderflower presse to enjoy as we watched birds and dolphins from our Minack Theatre perch. Seeing gannets dive for lunch, Tim explained that they hit the water at about 60 mph. When baby gannets try this too soon, they’re often found washed up on shore with broken necks.
Mont St-Michel in France has a little brother — directly across the English Channel. It’s St. Michael’s Mount here in Cornwall. Inhabited for about 1,500 years and originally a Benedictine monastery, today it’s a fun excursion for Cornwall tourists.
One of the most touristy places in all of Britain is at its far southwest tip, cleverly called Land’s End. Every tour bus stops here so people can pay £10 to line up to have their photo taken at the famous milepost. Tacky as this place is, there’s something exciting about being at the “land’s end” of anything. (Tomorrow, I’ll get you away from the crowds.)
Take me next trip. This area is on my short bucket list!
I predict that the recent success of the new PBS Poldark series, with the beautiful Cornwall settings, will draw more and more Americans to the area.
Kernow a’gas dynergh
You didn’t show the tacky shops and arcades for the kids just back landward from the sign, but there’s also the 19th century hotel and pub about 100 yards off to the right of the picture…Luckily there’s much more to see along the Cornish Coast like Mousehole, the Lizard, Perranporth, Mevagissey, Falmouth and St. Mawes. There’s also the Telstar satellite station at Goonhilly Downs near Helston, stone circles and old mine Engine Houses…Kernow bys vyken!
Poldark was shown on the BBC last spring, a bit before its debut in late June in the U.S. I read that tourism to Cornwall by BRITISH citizens was up 80% as a result of the HUGE popularity of the show there. I agree that U.S. visitors will increase soon, due to the show’s success here. Cornwall was on my list before seeing the beautiful cinematography of Poldark and I am thrilled that Rick Steves’ organization is planning a tour there!
I am 72 years of age, and used to vacation in Mousehole as a child with my parents during the 50s.
For your information the actual pronunciation of Mousehole is ‘MOUSEL’.
Another tiny village close by is Sennen Cove, which Rick may, or may not, have visited during his travels in Cornwall.
I enjoyed Cornwall too with Tim as the driver/guide on my recent “Dacey’s Cornwall Tour”. This is a great way to see the sights of Cornwall,a beautiful place with lots to offer. A couple from that tour then took one of your tours after it so must have had an amazing vacation.