Amsterdam: “When a Dog Takes a Dump, We Have a New Mountain”

Nike Padalino

After years of reshuffling and rebuilding, Amsterdam is coming together — and 2013 is shaping up to be a big year for finally completing ambitious projects. On the day of my visit, newspapers reported that the curator of the Rijksmuseum had just been given the keys to his museum by the construction boss. Dutch art lovers are thrilled that in April of 2013, the new, much-improved Rijksmuseum will reopen.

As of September 24, 2012, the Van Gogh Museum will close. The top 75 Van Gogh masterpieces will be on display in the more central Hermitage Amsterdam museum until late April of 2013, when the Van Gogh Museum will reopen to kick off its 40th birthday celebration.

About 1.5 million people tour the Van Gogh Museum annually. Many of them visit on hallucinogenic mushrooms (sold at street-corner “smartshops”). But a 2008 law now prohibits selling ‘shrooms. So now, instead, the smartshops sell hallucinogenic truffles (technically not “mushrooms” because they grow underground)…and those wanting to trip out on Vincent do so on ‘ruffles.

Along with the reopening of the refurbished Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam’s many characteristic canals will get in on the 2013 action. Next year they’ll be celebrating their 400th birthday, with concerts, swimming, skating, and even fashion catwalks.

As usual, I picked up a bike for my entire stay in Amsterdam. The city is a delight on two wheels. The clerk at the bike-rental shop explained why they don’t carry mountain bikes in this very flat country: “Mountain bikes in the Netherlands make no sense at all. When a dog takes a dump, we have a new mountain.”

There are not many museums in Europe that are the creation of a single person, who personally guides every visitor through. Nike Padalino created “Electric Ladyland: The First Museum of Florescent Art,” filling it with samples and artifacts both historic (florescent crayons used by California church groups in the 1950s) and natural (glow-in-the-dark stones scavenged from high in the Himalayas). Nick even gave himself a tattoo that is invisible until you shine a blacklight on it.

While there’s lots of news for travelers in Amsterdam, one thing that’s changed very little is the energy of the crowds that throb all along the city’s main drag, Damrak.

Ports like Amsterdam and Hamburg are seeing a big spike in cruise business. As throughout Europe, cruising is on the rise.
Comments

6 Replies to “Amsterdam: “When a Dog Takes a Dump, We Have a New Mountain””

  1. Twenty years ago we hiked the E-5 trail south from Hoek van Holland — hiking club guide in one hand, Dutch-English Dictionary in the other. It was not until the tenth day, just before leaving the Netherlands for Luxembourg, that we encountered the Dutch word for “uphill”!

  2. My first visit to the Van Gogh Museum, in 1979, was unforgettable. On every wall of one memorable room his colorful landscapes were enough to transport the senses into an exhilarating state of bliss. No plants, fungi or chemicals required. I hope the curators will put those paintings together in the same room again. Would love to have that experience again.

  3. For Vincent afficianados: Don’t forget that there is a nice Van Gogh collection at the Kroller-Muller museum in Hoge Veluwe National Park near Arnhem.

  4. Similar to the truffle legalities, what is the status of coffeeshop (cannabis) sales to visitors? I’ve seen contradictory info. Specifically, I’m asking about Amsterdam – since some of the info I’ve seen indicates that the jurisdiction may affect the law’s adoption or enforcement.

    Hoping to catch the new Rijksmuseum when we visit next April before boarding a Rhine river cruise. (Different topic – now that you’ve done an ocean/sea cruise, you’ve gotta’ check out the booming river cruise offerings, Rick)

  5. @Mark K. The current status of what is known as the “wietpas” or “weed pass” is that it the law is currently in effect in the Southern half of the country. Various people have sought to challenge the law under a discrimination argument, but the high court in the Netherlands has upheld the law as is. In the North (you asked about Amsterdam), the law has not yet been implemented. It will go into effect in Jan 2013. Thus, at that time, the whole country will be following the same law uniformly. I myself am curious as to what the outcome will be, especially since we are having National elections in September and will hopefully form a new government shortly after. The new government might have a different idea on this (or maybe not).

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