Looking Back at a Thrilling 2013

As we wrap up 2013, I’m enjoying travel memories of a richly rewarding year. It has been a year of getting out of my comfort zone and broadening my horizons. While I’m thankful for this thrilling year of travel, I’m also thankful for you — my Blog and Facebook fans. Social media has added a dimension to my travels that I couldn’t have imagined just a few years ago. Not only do I get the joy of turning my insights into guidebooks and television shows that travelers will use for years into the future, I now get to have you as my real-time, virtual travel partners. Reading your thoughtful comments is an enjoyable way to end each day while on the road. Our online conversation makes my travels all the richer. So thank you!

I hope you enjoy this slideshow of some of my 2013 highlights.

A horse cart took me through a grove of Egyptian reeds and into a time-passed Nile village, where I drank tea with a proud old hajji who had just returned from Mecca.
A horse cart took me through a grove of Egyptian reeds and into a time-passed Nile village, where I drank tea with a proud old hajji who had just returned from Mecca.
In nearby Israel, I celebrated that country's 65th birthday with Jewish friends at a city-park BBQ, complete with pork-free "bacon."
In nearby Israel, I celebrated that country’s 65th birthday with Jewish friends at a city-park BBQ, complete with pork-free “bacon.”
Across the wall in Palestine, I hiked "Biblical Terraces" through an ancient olive grove and joined a local family for the harvest. At the end of the day, I watched the golden olive oil spill into their buckets at the village press.
Across the wall in Palestine, I hiked “Biblical Terraces” through an ancient olive grove and joined a local family for the harvest. At the end of the day, I watched the golden olive oil spill into their buckets at the village press.
A continent away in St. Petersburg--as brides and grooms posed for wedding portraits, filling city parks with hope and happiness--I realized why President Putin is so popular in Russia: It's a land where dreams of stability trump dreams of democracy.
A continent away in St. Petersburg–as brides and grooms posed for wedding portraits, filling city parks with hope and happiness–I realized why President Putin is so popular in Russia: It’s a land where dreams of stability trump dreams of democracy.
In Scotland, I read a poem scrawled by "Robbie" Burns on the chimney of a village inn, then helped to stomp the paint off the neighboring pub's floor thanks to a rockin' folk band.
In Scotland, I read a poem scrawled by “Robbie” Burns on the chimney of a village inn, then helped to stomp the paint off the neighboring pub’s floor thanks to a rockin’ folk band.
In France I found new ways to make history come to life--from strolling into the world of medieval stained-glass symbolism with Chartres scholar Malcolm Miller.
In France I found new ways to make history come to life–from strolling into the world of medieval stained-glass symbolism with Chartres scholar Malcolm Miller…
… to touring the lavish Loire Valley palaces of financiers of pre-revolution France with my France guidebook co-author Steve Smith. More than just climbing through châteaux, a tour of the Loire includes prancing horses, towpath bike rides, and pulling escargot out of their shells literally by the dozen in small-town restaurants--where even a Yankee traveler is fed like a prince.
… to touring the lavish Loire Valley palaces of financiers of pre-revolution France with my France guidebook co-author Steve Smith. More than just climbing through châteaux, a tour of the Loire includes prancing horses, towpath bike rides, and pulling escargot out of their shells literally by the dozen in small-town restaurants–where even a Yankee traveler is fed like a prince.

That Was Christmas… Now Help Me Do the Same for Easter

Writing the script for our Rick Steves’ European Christmas special was a fascinating challenge. We had two crews to fan out across Europe, visiting seven countries in two weeks leading up to the 25th. While we could only actually be in two places on Christmas Eve and Day (Salzburg and Rome), we managed to fake Christmas Eve in the other places. This required calling on European friends (mostly tour guides and people who run B&Bs that I recommend in my guidebooks who had small children) to let us come into their home as they celebrated “Christmas Eve”…several days before the actual holiday. As they cooked the goose, invited the grandparents, hung out under the mistletoe, and so on, we were right there — on the carpet, in the kitchen, and under the tree — with our cameras rolling. Since we were footing the bill, we encouraged each family to pull out all the stops and put on a blowout Christmas to remember…and they all did. These kids will always recall 2005 as the strange year they celebrated Christmas twice.

I’ve worked with producer Simon Griffith for many years, and his brilliance was what I’ve come to expect. When Simon suggested that his wife, Val, co-produce and direct the second crew, I was skeptical. My rule is generally, no family on the crew. I knew Val socially but had never slogged through a TV production with her. But smartly, I trusted Simon. Val was absolutely wonderful — an artist, a great writer, and a strong leader and manager. Her crew ended up with the hardest schedule (England, France, Italy), and they did more than just cover the script. Val also co-authored the Christmas book that was a byproduct of our project.

We could never have pulled off the production of this special without the help of Steve Cammarano (editor and assistant field producer), Gene Openshaw (script and book editing), Maddie Thomas (England mom/guide/organizer), Christinia Schneeweiss (Salzburg guide/organizer), our two talented and hardworking cameramen (Karel Bauer and Peter Rummel), and many more both in Europe and in our home office. We hope you can enjoy Rick Steves’ European Christmas each holiday season on your public television station. Buon Natale! Frohe Weihnachten! Joyeux Noël! Merry Christmas!

By the way, I’m hoping to do a similar public television special on European Easter, with related Carnival and Lent festivities. I expect we’ll have two crews filming in Europe during the next two Easters to put this together. I’d love your help in planning this. What are your favorite Easter-related happenings in Europe that you’d recommend I consider for our Easter special?

Santa Claus: The Many Faces Behind the Beard

christmas-book-santa-tree-bwIn our Rick Steves’ European Christmas book (a companion book to the public television show), we outlined the history and many European variations on Santa Claus. Here’s an excerpt:

Our American Santa Claus — a plump, jolly old fellow dressed in red — is just one of many gift-giving characters who preside over the Christmas season. Depending on where you are in Europe, it’s possible to bump into St. Nicholas, Father Christmas, Père Noël, Samichlaus, Sinterklaas, and others. All are brothers of sorts, tracing their lineage back either to an early Christian saint or a pagan deity. The origin of these multicultural gift-givers is a tangle of folklore, crossed with some early Christian public relations and a dash of modern commercial branding.

Let’s start with the branch of the family that hails from the frozen north. Long before the birth of Christ, there was Odin, father of the Viking gods. Like Santa, Odin was a stout old man dressed in furs with white hair and a long beard. During the winter solstice, Odin rode through the sky on his eight-legged magical horse, Sleipnir, and descended to earth. Disguised in a hooded cloak, he would eavesdrop on Vikings sitting around the campfire, trying to figure out who had been naughty and who had been nice. Occasionally, he would leave a gift of bread for a poor family.

Around the same time in the British Isles, chilly Celts were crowning a Frost King and appealing for leniency during the harsh midwinter months. In the Middle Ages, the legends of King Frost and Odin became associated with the Christian practice of helping the poor at Christmas. Parishes would hire actors in disguise to go undercover through the village, finding needy families, and reporting back to the village priest. In the 16th century, during the party-hearty reign of the Tudors, the character morphed into Captain Christmas, a sort of master of ceremonies presiding over the unruly fun at Christmastide. Banned by Puritan prudes in the 17th century, he re-emerged in the 18th century in plays put on by itinerant players as Father Christmas.

In the 19th-century Victorian era, Father Christmas was portrayed as a bearded pagan wearing robes and a crown of holly, ivy, or icicles, while hoisting a bowl of wassail. Gone were any saintly attributes, but he was a jolly enough fellow who made people happy during the dark days of winter.

Toward the end of the 19th century, Father Christmas was reinvented as the bringer of gifts to children. This probably came about because of the Victorians’ emerging interest in their children, coupled with influences from Europe and America, where St. Nicholas and Santa were popular.

Today, Father Christmas is a kind old gentleman who dresses, depending on his whim, in a long red robe trimmed with fur or a belted red jacket and cap (in which case he is easily confused with Santa, whose nocturnal habits he has also acquired).

Meanwhile, another branch of the Santa Family tree was sprouting from an early Christian monk named St. Nicholas. It’s believed that the historical Nicholas was born in the Eastern Roman Empire (now Turkey) sometime around A.D. 280. Some folklore experts have suggested his life story was probably recycled from tales of various pagan gods and then Christianized. Legends abound about St. Nicholas, who became the bishop of Myra (modern-day Damre, Turkey) and was much admired for his piety and kindness. He was rumored to have given away all of his inherited wealth to travel the countryside helping the poor and sick. He kept an especially watchful eye on orphans, occasionally giving them gifts; over the years, his reputation grew as a compassionate protector of children.

According to one story, he prevented three poor sisters from being sold into prostitution by their destitute father. Nicholas provided them with a dowry, so they could be married. The legend grew that he gave the money anonymously by tossing bags of gold through a window, or perhaps down the chimney. The gold landed in the girls’ stockings (some versions swap stockings for shoes), which had been left by the fire to dry.

By the Middle Ages, St. Nicholas was the most popular saint in Europe. On the eve of his Feast Day, December 6th (the anniversary of his death), a bearded, robed man appeared in every village, passing out gifts to children and the poor.

In many lands, there were now two Christmas figures — the Christian St. Nicholas (commemorated on December 5th and 6th) and the pagan party animal who became Father Christmas (December 24th, 25th, and beyond). Over the centuries, different cultures merged these two figures, some emphasizing one legend over the other, some celebrating on the 6th, some on the 25th, some both. Today, a European Christmas brings the whole extended Santa Family together as you can see in our chart of Santa’s Family Tree.

Early American settlers had strong ties with the Christmas traditions of England. In the 17th century, Dutch immigrants brought the story of St. Nicholas to America. Americans loved the custom, but had trouble pronouncing the name. The Dutch “Sinterklaas” became “Santa Claus,” and the name stuck. Our modern Santa Claus is an amalgam of European traditions, combining the kindly, gift-giving St. Nicholas and the mischievous, fun-loving Father Christmas.

Today’s image of the American Santa Claus — the jolly fellow with the apple cheeks and twinkling eyes — came by way of a German immigrant who published his illustrations in Harper’s Weekly in the late 1800s. This magnanimous Santa Claus was a boon to shopkeepers during a period of unprecedented growth in retailing — department stores, chain stores, and new-fangled billboards. They joyfully exploited the commercial potential of an entire season dedicated to gift giving, brought to you by Santa. In the 1930s, the Coca Cola Company, in need of a sales boost, borrowed Santa’s image and branded their product with the merry ol’ gent… thus completing his epic journey from saint to salesman.

Today, in many parts of Europe, there’s a movement to preserve the tradition of St. Nicholas, who’s at risk of being crowded out by the American Santa. Some villages are even creating Santa-free zones. They see Santa as a super-size symbol of consumption. St. Nicholas, they argue, embodies the real Christmas spirit, a monk whose example taught that giving doesn’t make us poorer — it makes us richer.

Christmas: Not a Day, but a Season

christmas-nativityIn the seven countries we visited to film Rick Steves’ European Christmas, Christmas is more than just December 25th — it’s a season that lasts for more than a month. This isn’t to give people more time to shop, but to fit in all of the holy days and festivals.

First comes Advent, the time to anticipate the “arrival” (advent) of the baby Jesus. Advent begins four Sundays before Christmas Eve. In Europe, this truly is the start of Christmas, since advertisers are reluctant to commercialize the season any earlier.

Next up is the Feast of St. Nicholas, celebrated mostly in Catholic countries with lots of gift giving on the eve or day of December 6th. In some countries, St. Nicholas’ Feast is even bigger than Christmas Day.

December 13th brings Santa Lucia Day — a highlight in Scandinavia, when young girls decked out in candles lead processions promising the return of the light.

For many Europeans, Christmas Eve is the main event, celebrated with Midnight Mass and a grand meal. Others concentrate on the family time and gift giving of Christmas Day.

But for those who really get into the holiday spirit, December 25th is just the start. The Twelve Days of Christmas — featuring more parties, gift giving, and the ringing in of the New Year — stretch from December 25th until January 5th. This period is followed by Epiphany (January 6th), the day the Three Kings delivered their gifts. The Christmas season finally goes into hibernation after this…until next year.

The Roots of Christmas: From Sun Worship to Son Worship

 

christmas-wheat-wreathAs I’m reflecting on the making of my Rick Steves’ European Christmas television special, CD, and companion book, I wanted to share this book excerpt, which outlines how much of our contemporary notion of celebrating Christmas actually has prehistoric and pagan roots:

For as long as people have shivered in the winter, they’ve celebrated the beginning of its end. For ancient people of Europe, midwinter was known as the Yuletide, meaning the “turning of the sun.”

Imagine you’re living in the cold of northern Europe before the birth of Christ. Your gods are the mysterious forces of nature:  the sun, rain, and wind. In summer, it’s warm, plants grow, and food is plentiful. Then it gets cold and dark, and the earth becomes frozen and bleak.

Just when everything looks darkest — around December 21st, the winter solstice, the longest night of the year — what do you do? You throw a party! And, slowly but surely, the cycle turns. Your sun god, who’d been weak and sick, is now on the mend, spring is coming, and once again life is returning to your world.

For the prehistoric people of Europe, late December — though dreary and dark — was the perfect time to celebrate. Why? Because they had fresh meat and good grog to celebrate with: In December, villagers often slaughtered the cattle they couldn’t afford to feed through the winter, so this was the only time of year when many of them had fresh meat. Also, wine and beer made earlier in the year had finally fermented and were ready to drink. Time to party!

The pagan Romans conquered the pagan Celtic people around 50 B.C. The Romans called their solstice festival Saturnalia, and it was marked by feasting and good-natured goofiness. Then, as Christianity slowly spread through Rome — becoming the empire’s chief religion by the fourth century A.D . — the midwinter celebration got a new twist.

In the first few centuries of Christianity, Easter was the primary holiday — Jesus’ birthday wasn’t even celebrated. The Bible doesn’t say exactly when Jesus was born, and what it does say — that “shepherds were herding their flocks” — suggests spring rather than winter. But in the year 350, Pope Julius I decided to make the birth of Jesus a holiday, choosing December 25th. Politically, it was a clever choice, because the young religion (legal for less than a century) could then adopt and absorb the traditions of the immensely popular Saturnalia. The fun-loving spirit of the pagan festival dovetailed nicely with the joyous welcome given to the Christ child. By the mid-fifth century, the Feast of the Nativity — as Christmas was first called — was celebrated from Egypt to England.

By the Middle Ages, Christianity had largely replaced pagan religions. But the hedonistic partying of pre-Christian religions was inextricably woven into Christian celebrations. On Christmas, believers attended church, and then got wild and crazy.

Though church leaders would have preferred to celebrate with more reverence than revelry, pagan customs survived: People still sang in roving bands, shared bowls of wassail (spiced wine), performed farcical plays, and exchanged gifts at New Year. Most medieval lords provided a Christmas feast for their tenants and made the 12 days of Christmas a holiday from work, so for many people, Christmas was as much about feeding the body as feeding the soul. From these festive rituals — long celebrated around the winter Christian holy days — many sacred observances emerged that are still beloved by the faithful as integral parts of their Christmas celebrations.